Month: July 2017

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/.50
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Like yesterday- but smaller. Sometimes – rather most times- I get a song stuck in my head during a session. The past WEEK i have had the same song in my head. FACES “you Wear It Well”. Sittin out at boatdox waiting for a wave and in comes the melody of ole’ Rods raspy london twang “You Wear It Well , A Little Ole’ Fashioned but I don’t Mind”. Then it ends. Cause that’s the only lyrics i remember. Then i bob a little more and the melody comes back: “you wear it well …” on and on and on.
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=92012.

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/.50
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Strong offshore wind. boatdox. every once and a while a perfectly groomed shoulder high wave rolled in- standing straight up in the offshore- T3 in the lineup – just two others. i got only one of the really good set waves- riding down the line blind because the rising sun was in my eyes and i couldn’t see in front of me
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=91845.

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : not that crowded for a sunday. the regulars( Julius – I now know his name, T3 etc etc) first hour was grand – waited for the outside bigger waves – got one absolute killer ride – sections kept opening up and I was right the fuck at the edge of the nose – people whooping as i went down the line – riding the board like charlie chaplain on the deck of the ship in the gold rush meets THE joe cocker 1972 stage dance when he was high on POT+LIQUOR+BEER+LSD+HEROIN+QUALLUDES+AMPHETIMINES…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=91656.

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Again nice mellow crumbly lefts – this time in front of taco bell- – surfed very very well- so fucking rides and most of them were pretty good. tina and bill along for the ride. whales breaching in the distance. afterwards bernal star for brunch. “Excuse me waitress, was there sugar in that vanilla caramel chocolate cake that I just ate??” Yes, sir. “I am allergic to sugar and you didn’t inform me-I want to see the manager immediately – Also call an ambulance as I am likely to go into toxic comatose sugar withdrawal. You should also call your lawyer as well…”
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=90799.