Month: October 2017

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : Am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Supposed to be smaller than friday but it was even bigger. It was hell getting out. Big green slab came at me – thought i was positioned well – but it jacked up on me so i aborted at the last second. I made it over the lip but not the board. I felt that wave tug the leash to the max until i felt it “release” the board went sailing twords kooks and the shore and i was left swimming in big swell. Didnt panic – took it slow board fortunatel didnt hit anyone and MIKE grabbed it so i didnt even have ro swim all the way to shore. Went back out got one nice one and was done
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : Am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 al
Notes : Bolloxed the entries all up… put in this entry on friday the 30th. Anyway this was the really big day … i diplaced my left contact caught it on my index finger paddled with one arm past the break and managed to put it back in. Got only one really nice slab of a ride- every other wave i bloody well bolloxed up
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : Am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : Last week was all about the boatdox… this week its the little peak in front of the a lot pumphouse – today once again…
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : Am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : Repeat of the last few days – except a little heavier and steeper dropped into some rocket rights
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : Clean again – windless – a lot pumphouse – attcking some open corners w/ CP and the regular early am crüe
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***+
Board : 94 AL
Notes : surfed steep strong clean offshore waves in front of taco bell really really well- maybe because i got the AL board back from the shop? probably because i saw the freaky psych surf film last night morning of the earth – 1972 dawn of the shortboard – still surfing leashless – more blond hair afro’s than you could shake a stick at – trip soundtrack- i got left that just STAYED OPEN ON AND ON it felt like everyone at linda saw that wave- 1 hour later someone said “man that wave was good you got earlier”
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92 ASP
Notes : smaller and mellower- hella crowded – started at the dox for some sliders then paddled over to the creek for the right – it was steeper and juicy-er
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***+
Board : 92 ASP
Notes : BOATDOX BOASTDOX!!! coming thru again big and clean- waited outside and got some bombs- button up against a five star…
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : Am/1.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 92asp
Notes : BOATDOX ! BOATDOX!!! BOATDOX!!! Dox fever this week – 4 star. Bigger and sloppier but as t3 said as we were walking down ” pat we are gonna get some waves out there this morning” as the sun rose red over the horizon you could smell the ash in the air from the conflagarations up north…
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