Month: July 2018

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/3.0
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Choppy conditions at the dox – but there were waves – surfed like shite – hungover- it took me three hours to get three decent waves. Of note D the K went FULL ON rage-olic maniac mode on some poor kid. Tried to take it to the parking lot. Innocent learners were freaking out. One guy said for D the K to chill the fuck out but D the K said he defiantly was not going to chill. Some poor kid- not sure what he did OR if he did anything at all. It was 1983 Orange County. Got me thinking I need to name the Linda Mar a-holes and psychopaths. They are: 1)  BB and his cohort lapdog jabroni syncophant “friend” 2) Rasta 8hr 3) D the K 4) D the Curmudgeon 5) R.I. Only 1 [BB] is a really good surfer the rest go from okay to mediocre. 2 and 3 seem to have definite mental health issues – i.e. they are raising hell because they are off meds. 4 and 5  just seem to ALWAYS  get run into or run into people … just generally attracted to people/situations where they get into fights/kertuffles. All five of these folk are -through fault and perhaps no fault of their own- toxic and should be either avoided or watched/monitored in the water so as to preserve stoke.
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : a little something in front of taco bell – looked like rubbish but glad i went in because i scored a few nice ones
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 AL
Notes : as i recall not bad at ole dox … but i let too many days pass before an entry to be 100% positive
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 AL
Notes : working again at the dox with a little more push- slight off shore had to hug the inside- couldn’t really wait on the outside- could have surfed better
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 94 AL
Notes : started at dox – very small and weak – after a wave got out of the water and walked all the way up north by volleyballs. it was bigger and folding over fast- short board stuff- you needed to pick wisely angle toward the corner and ride the wave hig got two and got out. back at the car the dox had turned on -should have stayed there
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : it was smaller at the dox – but clean and windless – perfectly fine waves- believe it or not from 715 to 815 I was the only one surfing dox- then it started getting swamped – by 830 it was 15 845 20 9 25-30. i don’t think i ever (or rarely) surf the dox when it has a wave with no one there even on a weekday
Stats/Video :