Month: August 2018

NY

Location : NY
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : ***
Board : 90 Soprano
Notes : went in at Lincoln but surfed the south jetty away from flipper. small but actually fun- we both got a lot of small fun micro rides…
Stats/Video :

NY

Location : NY
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 90 Soprano
Notes : hit Lincoln w/Gina. small weak rubbishy- surfed poorly because Flippers radioactive toxicity made everyone in his aura surf terrible
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/2.75
Rating : **+
Performance : ***+
Board : 94 al
Notes : overcast, onshore and bumpy. but there was a right at the creek so I hit it. Surfed better than I have in maybe(months) Not so much on the board footwork as Wave selections, positioning and takeoffs. I think I got fully 90% of all waves I paddled for. also did a 360 switch foot – recovered and surfed a bit goofy foot without falling off the board immediately
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : it was lumpy and dumpy at the creek. but outside sets were coming through. I got two very nice waves which made the sash a three. however I was never out FAR enough to catch the overhead el bombs that came through ( twice in an hour and a half) I always felt – now I am out far enough – but it was never far enough – I scratched over them but was not in a position to make them- behind me – bioth times- it wiped the lineup out…. afterwards there was a big hullabaloo because it was the surfing dog CHAMPIONSHIPS. ALL THE SURFING DOG PLAYERS WERE AT THE BEACH. the top dog surfers were aggressively marketing there dogs with tents for the dog and the dogs logo. how many championships they won and their twitter handle and a table where you could buy t shirts of the dog. it was crazy. I have heard of stage moms but this was “surf dog moms” people actually were lining up to have a photo taken with the most famous of the surf dogs – like it was Kelly Slater or something. I guess people gotta do something with there time…
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 94 AL
Notes : clean at the dox. stuff coming through. unfortunately i forgot how to surf. very poor wave selection. caught one outside wave…
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **+
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : it was onshore and overcast – jumbled up- but i was going. after a while in front of taco bell i paddled over to Tim firefighter by the creek. stuff was coming through just hard to reel in a corner. i nabbed two – quite nice- many sectioned puzzle piece waves – coolio
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