Month: November 2018

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 92 los olos
Notes : wow- really really smoky – but glass waist high in fron of the a lot pumphouse. one other surfer on the peak and fort the first hour had it all to ourselves- didn’t let up – wave after wave – rights- hair not wet until after the third ride. surfed well both on the board and wave selection.
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Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92 los olos
Notes : Jumping jesus the smoke was so thick from the chico fire you could barely breathe – eyes red. but what great waves – l’il peelers in front of the A lot pumphouse – very noseridy – great sesh
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Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92 los olos
Notes : Thought I was being smartby going direct to the dox but it was real slow going. I paddled over finally to the creek – south side of rock garden and wouldn’t you know it – once you got up close and personal there was a supe r nice fast right hander. Everyone was positioned either A: too far ahead of the shoulder OR B: toor far behind /deep at the peak. There was a sweet spot in between the two with the perfect takeoff spot with no one sitting in position. I paddled over and got a nice little screamer. then a no leash longboarder followed me and we traded off waves- all rights that released where you typically paddle out at boat dox. my last ride i dismounted into a giant patch of seaweed so thick it felt like quicksand. I emerged onto the beach stringy thick like the creature from the black lagoon. I showered at the stall but even so later a co -worker said- “I think you have seaweed in your hair”…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92 los olos
Notes : the creak peak was working – kind of clean and big open left. but chock full of dead weight in the impact zone just bobbing – plus the glare was bad got one but felt it was to dangerous. paddled over to the dox- much nicer -BM serfin the inside- got a few very nice clean lefts – last ride was killer shoulder high left that the opened up into a reform right – super hi tide
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 92 los olos
Notes : got in at 645 because had to be at jury duty at 845. it was small but clean at the dox. super hi tide so had to work for the fat breaking waves- but found a couple of here and theres that paid off. got dismissed for jury duty then picked up new iphone xr then voted then went to work. took the house of reps but not the senate or key govenorships- lammy came over after seeing the palliative boho rhapsody – hard to believe that half a voting country still thinks its okay to have a racist misogynist kleptocratic cartoon as a prezident…
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Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 92 los olos
Notes : as i mentioned to a few people the waves today were lumpy dumpy and grumpy. clean but fat. it was high tide so it was hard to pick one that folded over to a shoulder. but they were there. my last wave was a very nice right at the creek – that came with a reform
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Location : LM
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board :  it was a zoo. but there were waves especially by taco bell. i managed to score quite a few. then BB arrived and i paddled more over to the creek. it was just a bunch of kooks on soft tops so navigating was a problem- but i wound up with 3 or 4 nice ones. then a kook hit me. onshore i noticed the damage- cracked nose. called rich wood and dropped off the board
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Location : O
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94 al
Notes : Pleasure Point benefit surf contest for Chango. Car going down Capp at 6:11 AM arrived in Santa Cruz city at 7:23 AM. Fastest time ever basically 72 minutes. it was flat mostly except for first peak – wuite the scene with tons of longboards against the rails gregg  and karen cochran signing people in. chango walking around with a weird cane type walking devicec. my heat had two 15 year old girls- a 10 year old , a 25 year old and a 50ish guy my age. all of them were leashless. at the horn we paddled out to the peak- i couldn’t get anything and just watched each one of them get wave after wave. paddling back in was a problem because the high tide was smashing up against the stairs- kinda hairy. agfterward surfed small stuff down at the hook. ashley took first but i missed her heat. great to be part of the event
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Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : wow – pretty nice lines out at the creek peak. everyone on it so it was a scramble – managed to get into quite a few- I wish I had surfed better however  because the waves were well groomed. odd there was a twenty min ute window where it was wave after wave – then it just backed off and became Lully again – it was weird
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Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : Again, from the lot it looked grim weak and close-outy. I did spy the right by the creek staying open into rock garden. I knew exactly where i wanted to go. And damn if there weren’t right handers there – gettin in early and up real fast gave you quite a nice ride. i surfed really well and mad an otherwise mediocre mush day into something memorable- great sesh…
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