Month: December 2018

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 AL
Notes : STARTED OUT AT THE DOX then meandered over to the right at the creek- managed to get a few there but then went back over to the dox. interesting session in that virtually every really good wave i got was marred by some kook or kook move- ie in the impact zone and had to abort or drop in on clean glass shoulders. funny because it wasnt really that crowded. mixed that day at KS’s with Mo
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : it was okay between the A lot and the creek-managed to score some here and theres. T and D went further north and apparently had a blast. but stying more south and mellow was good for me. dropped jacket off with c
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : again at A- lot pump house – fattish kind of rollers – lots of people but lots of surf able peaks so the crowd was dispersed. heavy hitters went further up north – so I stayed by the pump house – first 45 minutes were frustrating – but than I “locked” in to the wave and scored some hits…
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***++
Board : 94 al
Notes : A lot pump house rights and lefts. could do no wrong – in position for every wave – perfect form- got a left where I perched – so close to all 10 over – best surfing I did all win per so far…
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 AL
Notes : LOOKS CAN BE DECEIVING IN SURF EPISODE 1,284,579: Coming over the hill you could see long dark cordoroy lines in the ocean. massive. too big maybe? straight to boatdox. The north end was just nuclear 15 foot bombs. the point looked like Mavericks. But the dox- like a little midwest lake on a windless day. it seemed like the sets were coming in with more fory and frequency right about to taco bell – but not going off further south. I waited for a set and when it came in it looked manegable – with open corners.  people were saying – im going to taco bell because waves are rolling in more. Fools. I paddled out at the dox. super lull – dry hair in the lineup. anyway – in very short order it JACKED WAY THE FUCK UP. i could never really position myself for AN EL BOMBO. plus the tide was getting super high. i managed one okay left  and then everything went into super lull land. i think it was a half hour wait and then POW – very fast and very furious. over head high coming one after the other- many i just barely scratched over the lip. i wanted out but wasn’t sure how to get back safely to shore without wasing up on the rocks and dinging the board, the waves seemed to be banging up against the windows of the boat dox houses. plus the waves looked MAKEABLE BUT VERY SUDDENLY WENT INTO CLOSEOUT MODE. I aborted on one wave in the nick of time – like looking over the face of a white water cliff. plus way too many people in the water that should not have been. Finally found a manageable one that had a bit of a nice face – then tomahawk close out behind me- imanaged to stay on my board and ride all THE WAY LEFT IN TO the mouth of the creek avoiding the rocks and getting the fuck out -along with Tr. – we both thought “too dangerous”. gotup to the lot and folks came up and said how was it – too big – they laughed and said what are you talking about – indeed it looked like a little baby lake – calm at bathwater. i just thought – go in for an hour dewd… (ps two CG rescues today at OB — so far)
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 al
Notes : calm and clear- north end was bigger and makeable but the dox not yet working. opted for A lot pumphouse and scored a few here and theres- could have surfed better. by the time i got out the dox was picking up. the a guy got out with a fin gash to the forhead
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **+
Board : 94 al
Notes : WOW. would have given it a 4 if i had surfed a little better. A- lot pumphouse lines – some shoulder high with offshore wind – water felt warm – waves lent themselves to noseriding – you COULD NOT get to far ahead of the wave as it was breaking somewhat fat- pretty rockin
Stats/Video :

B

Location : B
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94 AL
Notes : well we spiralled up to bolinas – pristine skies million dollar views. we finally had the lower route to Bo opened. made some nice breakfast sammies/ surf wise it was gonna be a gamble -1600 joules-we got there and  it was soft and meek. couldn’t decide on the channel or the patch. opted for the patch- wound up staying way inside and gettin some here and there dribs and drabs. really Bo seems to me only to work when the joules are over 5000 – the you have a great wave at the patch. anyway we had a great lunch at coast cafe – a CALI day- gorgeous beauty every where you looked….
Stats/Video :