Month: October 2019

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Clear and windless- calm and lake -like- a peak again infant of the A lot pump house. It took me a while to get positioned – the best place to actually sit -a lot of hit and miss- because there were no shoulder take offs – get on right at the peak and then you had a ride -I finally settled in – a number of clean well ridden longish rights that were all of waist high. On one right I did switch stance and successfully surfed goofy foot for another 3 or 4 seconds and was able to dismount goofy- a very big accomplishment – I was surprised because I couldn’t figure out – how the hell did I just do that???
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : A lot action – clean clear strong offshore.Most waves folding over quickly and/or closing out. But that occasional Right was staying open and was a sweet ride. Then I noticed all of a sudden I noticed RD/PLB in the lineup. A soft topper dropped in on him and he was OFF TO THE RACES. OLB started screaming at him and – surprisingly- soft topper started talking back to him. This is NOT going to end well. Soft topper had two friends – also kooks- who came to soft toppers side. Now it was 3 against RD/OLB. RD OLB started screaming at all of them calling them kooks and something about -what else-  so you guys are locals huh- anyway I paddled away down South anticipating there would be a blood bath starting at any moment. Down south near Taco Bell I picked off a right – it was a ride that once up I thought – this is gonna close out on me – but it was one of those waves that just stayed open when the entire face was LIPPING with spray at the top – as far down the line as I could see the wave was at the same precipice – almost closing out- but it stayed open and I just raced down the line – feeling imminent collapse at any moment – bit it stayed open and was a sweet ride. after that I noticed fireman T getting out. He had gotten assaulted by old the week of the big chill out – I told him what was going down and we talked about it for a while and he explained to me why he didn’t call cops on old that day.  we both got out and as we were walking up by Taco Bell we could still hear olb screaming at the 3 kooks…
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LMC

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : At the A lot there was an open wave so I hit it first – but could not comnnect. paddled down to Taco Bell and managed one okay ride. then paddled back to the A lot and waited for a Sharp fast breaking left.   Wave was more amenable to a shorter board- but I finally managed to land one –  fast left rocket. By the time I had changed out conditions had changed to $ STAR all up and down the beach!!! “open faces everywhere – people pissin in the lot you know they just don’t care – don’t push me cause I’m close to the edge – I’m trying not to lose my head – a-ha ha”
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LMP

Location : LMP
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Linda Mar Panda’s – Well the first hour was definitely 4 star. At Panda’s slight to mid offshore- a wide breaking right would come by and it was KLASSIK GOLDEN KALI MAGJICK. Only three of us on the peak. But after an hour it kinda shut down – spent the second hour chasing down a dream…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : all the way to the right of the creek. trying to chase down that right. last right before you are at the dox. But it was so insanely crowded it proved very challenging. Aborted a number of rides for fear of collision- but managed a few clean rights with a clear flight path…
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ****+
Board : 94
Notes : Surf- forecast had only 57 joules – barely surf able. Coming into Pacifica it was glassy lake out on the great wide Pacific Ocean. straight to the A lot. Clean – slight offshore and there was indeed a PEAK. right in front of the A lot pump house. Not many folk on it. If you waited a right came through that was basically surfer magazine picture magazine. The whole session I missed exactly one wave. Everything I went for I caught- many many completed RIDING backwards into goofy foot- best yet. stayed DREAMLIKE the whole sEsh – it was perfect EVEN when I was changing out – KALI DREAM SESH…
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LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Strong offshore. Didn’t know where to go. I would look for a while at the creek and see “Wow perfect offshore open faced nugget staying open.” Then it would be close out after closeout. Then I would see at Pandas “Wow perfect offshore open faced nugget staying open.”. Then Pandas would close out  after close out for the next 10 minutes. NO PATTERN – NO PEAK. I paddled in and settled on Taco Bell – Rights were coming in – fierce wind blown faces staying open. And just me. No one else. Everyone else by the Creek. I had a window of about a half hour where I caught nugget after nugget. Folks migrated to where I was. Then – SHUT DOWN. Nothing. Paddled over to the Creek to catch a final wave and that was that…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : Big chunky rights at the Creek – Pandas left not quite working. Sets kinda big and folding over quick. Could never quite connect with the waves – but I did manage to catch a few of them. Many times I looked over the Falls on the right and said “ABORT -DANGER ABORT!”
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Clear and windless. A little jumbled. Some size also on the sets. I opted for boat dox. Other pod was to THE RIGHT of the creek – almost all going right. It was strange. The pod at boat dox was so near the pod at SOUTH creek that we frequently took the same set wave- boat dox got the left section and the extreme creek got the right open section – both kicking out at the same MEETING point where the wave closed out. Happened to me on several waves – both with C. Had some glare problems that hampered free flow…
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