Month: December 2019

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ****+
Board : 95
Notes : The right again at the A lot pump house. The pod was crowded with everyone- R- BM crüe- T, C and C on and on. But I was on fire and in the perfect spot every time I paddled out – head high feathering rights that I whipped into on the Magic Dove and then held a high line- easily one of the best surfed LM session all year…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : The right – in front of the A lot pump house again. First hour it was standing up – shoulder hight – then the second hour it died  down – and surfed it inside. Surfed excellent despite waves not be great
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Going with the double 4’s mostly because of the first hour which was magic glass peak right in front of the A lot pump house. I sat outside and was able to pick off so truly great shoulder high peaks. It kind of deteriorated in the second hour and I moved a little south to “Middles” but that first hour warrant to double 4’s…
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Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 95 Magic Dove
Notes : Smallish open corners available at Taco Bell and the creek. It was real hunt and peck. The difference was that I was surfing so well I was able to turn the slop into a great session. Good wave selection and right up on the nose immediately
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95 MD
Notes : Gigantic up and down the coast with 25 MPH offshore. Oddly people were not stacked up at the Dox. Softies crowded around Taco Bell and then getting decimated when the set waves came through. Far In the distance two surfers – like ants- were hitting the point. We could see them sweep across these GIANT monsters – painting an enormous scribble on the waves face. was cautious. hard to get into any wave especially since you went bling because of the wind whipping in your eyes. After an hour a wave lined up for me  and I stroked DOWN the face. It stayed open forever. Surfed it to shore. Done. 1 Wave = 1 Hour.
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Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95 Magic Dove
Notes : offshore but clear and sunny – with rain clouds looming in the distance. Up North was 3 or 4 folk including M. tapping into a big warbly wedge – left- you had to sort of double paddle into the face – but then had a nice ride. Got a nice Wedge ride on the nose of the the MD. Then I paddled down South – a mistake – should of stayed put. Then the clouds and rain came…
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Location : C
Time/Length : 1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Picked up the new board at Ashleys. Same model as Gina. 9’5″ composite with pintail. All white – Nicknamed “Dirty Dove” . Cap was working – nice waist size rollers- Board worked great – turns on a dime- light as all get out – easy to perform on and quick and easy to cross step. Also – very comfortable to paddle. Rides like a short board…
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Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****+
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Holy Fucking Shit. It was overcast – a little drizzly. It looked pretty flat is I went to the A lot. There were lines coming in just North of the pump house – but just one person on it. Way way up North were SUP M and SUP D. I actually saw them both get waves as I was coming over the hump. I paddled out and immediately caught a tuber of feathering waist high rights – stuff I could really turn on. Slowly I saw SUP M making his way South. He IMPLORED me to go North – consistent and great. But I begged off because now NO ONE was there. He said no there was one girl on a soft top that just got out. I stayed put. After a little while I noticed about 4 other long boarders get in way up North- from the distance I could see they were getting rides so I made the LONG LONG  paddle to the north end. There were five young friends – everyone was clustered almost BUTTING up against the North end rock. Mark was RIGHT of course. A giant FEATHERING right was coming through very consistent. I lined up as I heard one of the kids yell – OUTSIDE. He was right. A GIANT – I was right in position . I took off as it feathered then hit the mid-line – even at the mid line it was OVER MY HEAD. The board started to throttle at the speed but I held the line – how I have no idea. Easily the BIGGEST wave I have ever had at LM. Got about three more – none quite as big but all big wide faces that were relatively easy to paddle into – what a sesh…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Clear skies and glassy conditions with a slight offshore. Coming over the hump I saw lines at the Pier so immediately went to the B lot. However it was pretty lake-like- Occasional bump coming through but not well groomed. I walked over to the A lot. Everyone was up North but I noticed right in front of the A lot pump house was a super sweet shoulder high well groomed RIGHT – slightly steep – but somehow hooking/curling South in this weird pattern. One foil guy on it and two other long boarders. I hit it. Hard to get the right position for the peak but after 15 minutes I picked one off. It started off steep and then kind of wrapped around like it was facing off towards the dox – really open face – really fast- I could feel the board tremble /buckle under my feet – a great ride. I managed about three others of those in the next hour or so- I blew a lot of waves – and foil board Johnny seemed to land every other wave or so- still great sash – very Surfer Magazine California – Sunny – blue sky – glassy lines – KLÄ-SICK
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **+
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : The dox was working. very Lully – but when one came thru it was very nice – held open with a moderate offshore – only 2 of us working it. I could of surfed better – but what the hey
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