Month: July 2020

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : the Left was back on at Middles. it turned on in 20 minutes – from dumpy nothing – to nice little lefty chestnuts. unfortunately I was surfing like shite – and the peak was swarmed with good long boarders. I paddled over tp the right -which wasn’t as happening because the wave ran out of gas at the channel – still it was underpopulated and offered more of an initial thrust than the left. got a few nice ones – but truth be told – underperformed…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : cloudy and gray with slight cross offshore. shore break dump in front of the A lot. dox was flat. went to soul grind and when I came back the right had turned on. then it just kept getting better and better. the left over by Taco Bell REALLY turned on. S was out as well as the 3 kid long boarder Gloms. man it just kept getting better – glassy lefts- good long boarders started appearing out of thin air- was a competition – especially since I had been in for hour and a half. by the time I got out I was watching – considering “should I suit up and go back in?”
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Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : small inside Cap- crowded with kooks – everyone going for the little piddlers. I managed some n one rides – that impressed me – and apparently another guy who told me so when I got out of the water. picked up my repaired wetsuit at blown out wetsuit repair – the impetus for the spiral down south
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board :  a crowded kook hells cape . however 730 to 8 am was okay at the creek. then it just got too crowded on the south end with soft toppers. further up north it was heavier. lucky I mad it through the latter half of the session without someone running into me…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : clear with cross off shore- surface chop on the water- dox was flat – but peaks up and down the beach. I settled on the one in front of the creek. but when I got there it disappeared- no more sets. I paddled north past Taco Bell near S and a few other on another peak. that where I settled. grabbing some meandering choppy rights and lefts- but surfed kind of poorly – absent any poise or elegance…
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Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : cloudy and cross off shore windswept. surface chop on the water. dox was more or less flat. there was a little (and sometimes no so little) open right that was basically in front of Taco Bell. on fire for the first 25 minutes gettin right after right. sometimes a set came by that was a little bit of oomph – a lot better than I thought it would be…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : clear cross offshore winds and gusts. crumbly smallish wind swept madness in front of the A lot with R and S and a bunch of Covid Kids with nothing to do… couldn’t really connect that much with the offerings. I had one line up very nice right- I kind of stumbled the take off – but re- recovered and “FELL” back into the wave face- I sort of stumbled down the line like Charlie Chaplin on the deck of the boat in the gold rush. had no real earthly idea how I even stayed upright through the whole kooky comical ordeal…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***+
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : clear with brisk to heavy offshore gusts. lots of good boarders at dox and the creek. I sat at the creek trying to get the right. it folded over really quick and you had to dig dig dig to get into it . mucho failure. then finally I got one- dug in at the right time – about shoulder high – just stood up and never  folded over – like one big crusty lip – and I kept rolling with it. pro E in the mix as well as b and his crüe – lots o “competition” in that line up this AM and hard to keep apace….
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : wasn’t gonna go. overcast onshore cold wind. looked just close out trash. told M SUP was gonna pass. then decided to walk down to the dox where it looked a little better. G came by and said “suit up it’ll be good”. he was fucking right. outside choppy wedges came blasting through that were a blast to surf – you just never know sometimes…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : clear and clean and micro at the dox. no outside bombs. had tp pack in with the inside pod of good and bad long boarders and soft top flailing jabrones. but I managed a few little rides- weaving my way thru the pack to get up and on the little peak and take off down the kine like a little bitty Choo-choo train. on the north end tina took a phot of an orange red starfish in 1 foot of clergies water – looked like a Thomas kincaide master of light painting…
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