Month: August 2020

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Overcast and smoky. Action was at the Creek Peak to PandaBar aka Panda’s. Great _R and C- to really good long boarders in the mix so I was cautious and a little gun-shy. it was Lully but when a wave came by and you were in the right spot at the right time you could really get some open face action. I had a few nice set ups that I didn’t perform on – just a lack of control on the wave- so it was annoying performance wise. Still = there was snuff to go around…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Well the “secret” Right so well hidden to the hordes of people between TBell and the A lot pumphouse was not working. Kind of just closed out shore dump. The Creek Peak was working and severely crowded. Most were taking the left creek peak but I waited for the Right – which took a bit longer to swing by. the first hour was pretty good actually – then things quickly deteriorated. I paddled over to Dox and managed a piddly session ending exit wave…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes :

Wildfire  woke us at 2  and didn’t get back to sleep until 430 am. Late start. Coming over the hump at 830 the water was specked with what seemed like a million bobbing heads. A lot was full and I expected the B lot to be also – however it was half empty. I wondered why with the water so crowded. I think during the worst of the pandemic when the lots were closed folk got used to parking elsewhere. I guess to avoid paying folk are now parking up in crespi streets – and  in the crespi and norcal lots. Surprisingly, the same little inside Right was still working – just a couple of strokes north of the taco bell. More or less open runway and flight path. Most folk were taking the Left a little more north ( a longer ride) or taking the Left at Taco Bell. Thus, it left open that little Right between those two peaks. It was great again – although I didn’t surf as well as yesterday -+ smoke still was bad. Caught up with T in the parking lot afterwards. We were wondering about folk we know in the service industry and how they will survive – as the pandemic calcifies into a long term nightmare for musicians bars restaurants etc etc. How long can MOR , BOTH, LAC, The Chapel hold on??????

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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.55
Rating : ****
Performance : ****+
Board : 95
Notes : fog and thick smoke. very mellow clean glass from Taco Bell to the north end. most folk were taking a longish left in front of the A lot pump house. Pretty crowded. However I noticed there was a Right that would also come through just 50 yards South of that peak. a little less frequent but just as nice and it was empty. the peak was such that if You took off on the right by the end of the ride you would more or less end up in a face-off with people that were taking off from on the Taco Bell left peak. (which was also working). I selected waves well – almost 100% batting average. pone wave I went for I missed. wave count may have been 35 – 20 of those were good rides and 5 of them were great. some hood ornaments and complete spins into goofy foot stance
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : overcast and it looked m mushy. plus crowded. but people were getting out they said to me “its good”. indeed it was very very good. it kind of glassed off- and there were nice chest size little dox walls that were coming through. I was surfing great – with a lot of control. Razor sharp on the dime cutbacks- some hood ornaments. then everyone got out except for me and one woman. empty the last half hour. every wave that came thru I  could take. weird thing is plenty of folk were at the creek.  just twenty yards away. though to get into the wave you really did have to severely paddle right – into the crest then IMMEDIATELY turn and go left- that’s when the whole wave opened up- if not you would just flail on a shoulder that wouldn’t let you in…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : A soupy wedgy hodge lodge of a right in front of the A lot pump house. It got bigger and bigger during the session and a little more unruly. Lots of short boarders in the mix – when set waves did clean up heads were  popping up everywhere in the impact zone. got out and walked down south to the creek which was close out shore dump shite . at least the smoke has cleared up…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : In front of the A lot was a nice little right that dissipated after about 45 minutes. There were still waves but not as well groomed. Plus – the smoke from the fires was just too much- had to get out
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : cloudy. foggy. smoky. clean. dox was off and on. action was the left and right at the creek. with J. Hawaii S, The C and a host of others. the first hour I blew magical wave after wave. then the last 45 minutes was redemption wave after redemption wave. I got one ass kicking waist high right that opened up and gave and gave
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Location : NSFire
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Got to the soul grind lot at 620 am. Dox was near glass perfection with about 5 people on it. Plus the creek was working with another 5. I rushed back to the car and started to suit up – then the Pacifica ATV guy shows up in the lot. I duck down in the car in my seat cause I don’t wanna get the warning. He then takes off on the ATV down the rocky road to dox. I suit up and take the board with bag down to the entrance – but using the side path. Through the bushes I can see the ATV. After a while the ATV makes off down the beach and I make a mad dash for dox. As im running close behind me as R and E – both laughing. As we get to dox I realize “I forgot my leash” I leave my board on the shore and head back as R and E hit the perfect dox. By the time I get my leash the ATV is back at the entrance to dox. I wait in the bushes. Finally the ATV takes off again down to the north end. Im running down the beach and look bacvk – ATV has stopped at taco bell spied me and comes roaring back. I grab my board and start to make for the water. He’s close behind me – feet wet he roars up to me at the shoreline. Nabbed. He;’s very polite but says I can’t go in. I tell him I understand and head back to the car. He tells me – folks that make it into the water are okay and they don’t chase them down or try and usher them out. The trick is getting g from the beach to the water. Once you have a “warning “ you are cooked. Gotta time it right – gotta not forget your leash…

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Location : NSFire
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All beach parking lots in NorCal closed due to the fires. Counties wqnted to keep roads and arteries clear so that emergency vehicles could have access. I arrived  around 645 am and parked in noprcal sould grind lot. F and his boys at dox entrance looking at foggy shore dump all the way from south up north. A pacidfica patrol man was way far down near the A lot  on his ATV as we watched a boogie boarder trudge down to the sea  right about at the creek. ATV guy shut him down. Beaches also closed. He roared over to us and began talking – he had been up until 3 am – slept at the station house – then up at 6 to patrol up and down linda mar – nabbing people as they tried to scurry from the beach into the water. Said Pacifica police only had the one ATV

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