Month: August 2020

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : close out shore dump up and down the beach – you could hunt and peck and actually find a corner – but there was no real peak to speak of. you could tell it was going to get better as the tide filled in. I wound up down by the creek. there a family of dolphins appeared and some of them did FULL BODY AERIAL BREACHES. totally incredible. kids on shore were full throated screams every time it happened – savage throat clearing screams -“LOOOOOOOK -DOLPHHHHHINSSSS OH MY GOD” like adults screaming “LOOOOK NAKED JESUS JUMPING OUT OF THE OCEAN HOLDING THE SEVERED HEAD OF DONALD TRUMP OH MY GOD”
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : shore dump up and down the beach. I waited and it cleaned up a bit. went out at the creek and had an okay first 20 minutes (with E) and then it kind of just shut down to next to nothing
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Soot grime and haze everywhere – from the wild fires. thin film of ash covered the car. sneezed all night. smells like a backyard barb b que. At the mar in the smoky haze there was again the left at the creek. perhaps a little bit bigger and more consistent. I could have surfed better. again I trunked it – the water temp was 62. big ‘ole whales getting jiggy in the distance … the heat wave and fires and the pandemic and the sharks and the DNC convention make every day seem like some lo grade 80’s apocalypse film.  not zombie flesh eating
Slayer apocalypse – more like Christopher cross/ yacht rock apocalypse
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Trunked it. A small little left at the creek. lots of folks on it and for the first hour it was alright. Then it went away – completely disappeared and I got out.
Stats/Video :

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : cloudy blue gray skies with the occasional lightening bolt- massive nose first humpback whale breaches. more or less flattish shore dump – however there was the occasional corner so I suited up – skittish because of  Saturdays double shark sightings right inside the line up. I grabbed some meager corners here and there and had one very nice small but juicy right. when I got out I must have talked to about 12 people about the shark sightings – most of the men were macho “well there out there” kind of responses. the women were more like how I was – really scared and wanting to learn as much information as possible on the sightings. one fella mad a good point- he said-“Linds mar is not a rookery – it really is just a passing lane for sharks traveling else where” – and its really true. as I was about to get in the car a GIANT onshore SANDSTORM erupted – violent wind blowing everyone and everything down the beach- blankets shovels soft top surf boards small dogs yelping- I had to run into the car- the ocean turned into a white cap mush mosh
Stats/Video :

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Signs saying “shark sighted close to shore.” Apparently a black tip and a baby white shark were in the lineup yesterday morning while I was surfing. the sky was blue/gray cloudy and drizzly with occasional shafts of sunlight breaking through the clouds. jagged razor sharp bolts of white zig-zagging lightening going off in the distance. three Massive humpback whales doing full nose breaches quite close to the line up and making a huge splash. there would be occasional cross shore gusts and feathering weak (but ridable) rights and lefts. reforms and puzzle piece waves. choppy gnomes. managed a few. few in the lineup – but not uncrowded. kind of California Gothic. got out at 10 am and the lot was full and the weather had cleared up…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Clear clean and blue skies. more or less micro to flat from north to south end. there was a ridable left in front of the A lot pump house but it was unbelievably crowded with kooks and good sergers and my nemesis BB. I hung out there for a while hoping a Right would swing wide giving me a clear flight path – but it was not to be- it was just the Left. I paddled over to the creek where it was even more crowded – but with C and E. Kind of turned up blank so decided to get out and WALK back up to the A lot and get in where the Left was. In the half hour it had kind of cleared out a littler and opened up so I managed some okay rides…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : onshore wind – overcast and general mush from the north end to the south end. I was parked in the B lot. As I was changing I noticed T in the A lot. He saw me and walked all the way across the TB parking lot to talk. we talked waves and that he was going south to San Diego to visit his grandkids. we discussed that although the waves were rubbish – it was SURFABLE.  That Linda in general was almost ALWAYS surf able and how lucky we were. T = such a great guy.  I surfed a bit rubbish – though the waves were there – just couldn’t totally connect. A VET organization was in the water. an organization that helps vets overcome PTSD by surfing. there were a lot of them and one guy told a long long story about how he served two tours in Iraq – graphic description of IED hitting his armored carrier. a buddy getting shot in the face. etc etc – on and on. wished I had a tape recorder. weird thing is they were in CAMO wetsuits! both men and women. two whales breached and the a family of dolphins swam right in front of us. they were all ecstatic at these sightings. my god what they have been through was chilling…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : it was clear clean and somewhat flat at the dox. but the creek right was working and not that crowded so -I HIT IT. good move. very Lully but every 10 minutes a glass gen came through with a very nice open corner. then it was just closeout after close out. so everything hung on wave selection.
Stats/Video :

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : soft and mellow at the dox with I and C – mellow waves and mellow crowd – last wave was a killer piece of glass waist high magic
Stats/Video :