Month: August 2020

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : in at dox at 715. folks said the previous hour had been great. now it was lulled out. 40 minutes later finally my first wave came – the birthday wave – shoulder high glassy line. then another long wait – a few here and there’s – made some poor wave selections. as i got out it started to turn back on again. guess it was some tide turn around thingy bobby

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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : knee to shoulder dox glass/ all the glory was had in the first 20 minutes – i got 3 or 4 shoulder high outside nuggets. then some doofus kept dropping in on me – 3 waves- and things went sort of downhill performance wise. still how can you complain?
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Foggy and at 645 am the B lot was almost full. There was the left at the creek – but already there was just a tad too many people on it. Dox was smaller but less trafficked. (The North end was explosive close outs). Out at dox there was actually sets coming in – and I waited for them. I scored early and often. The crowd was almost all kooks so it was easy pickins. I was on my game. Logged with spastic elegance. Pulled off some hood ornaments and an Ian Curtis and some full cockers. Surfed so that if someone was looking at me casually from shore would think “my – that physically disabled man is able to surf – how inspiring.” The people kept coming. I got out and truly dropped my jaw at how many people were on the south end- it was wall to wall soft top jockeys. I walked over to the A lot to watch the utter devastation on the north end. kids and adults were going over the Falls in massive closeout – getting utterly annihilated- the most anyone got was a drop that turned into a brutal closeout on the surfers head. Why would they take such punishment? It wasn’t “surfing” it seemed more like ignorant wonton risk taking…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Going with the rare LINDA MAR 4X4!! Clean and clear and clean- and a little bit of size. the north end looked mackin. big and scary to my eyes. the A lot was half full at 645 am and the B lot was basically FULL!! I paddled out by walking right near the dox – hugging the coast- basically was able to walk in to the Line up – then just paddled over to the peak. if there is size and the tide is right that is always a better way to get out if there is a crowd. I quickly decided to hang a little outside and north of the pod. waiting for the off set wave to swing WIDE. it paid off. I was in position for glassy left after left – performing numerous “hood ornaments”. at one point my left contact popped out and fell on my cheek after a ride. I put it on my left index finger and paddled back out before the next set arrived with my right hand. I made it past the break point – steadied my hand and got the contact back in my eye. thank god. no long paddle and walk back to the car. a great sash. surfed so well that even though there was a crowd – I didn’t really notice it…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Another dox morning. this time I was able to connect a little better with what was on offer than yesterday- plus the waves had a little bit more “oomph”
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : a mediocre dox session primarily because I couldn’t connect that well with what was on offer – which was meager yet adequate…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : drizzly and choppy with onshore. on the fence but suited up. glad i did. once out there found some waist size lines coming through here and there. first 30 minutes i had great wave selection – 100% – every wave i paddled for i got. but then i faltered and started picking wrong waves – did i just lose concentration?
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : drizzly and choppy but a bit of a wave at the creek. hella crowded. it was a left at the creek – the only thing that had a face- got a few but really missed the bigger set waves that came through. funny – 3 people paddled over to me and said “finally waves- its been flat all week” . They were astonished when I said every day last week was good to great – as far as small wave longboard lefts. sure – if you looked at the cam you might have thought that – but all last week was great little rides. and all good long boarders out on them every morning. funny – some folk don’t even really look at the wave if its not perfect and breaking size wise. ( I mean even if you passed by Linda and looked out the window you might say – oh the oceans flat – little close out shore dump.) But all you had to do last week was go  look at that one spot in front of the A lot and wait a little bit – then watch R get long nose ride after nose ride – flat??
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