Month: June 2021

NSik

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Notes : night fever 100.4 sweats – still general fatigue- saw tele med dr burke in day – by which time felt was on the mend – no fever
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B

Location : B
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Beautiful bright crisp blue sky day to b- town with tina and Delia. some size and chop in the water. plus hella crowded with soft top jockeys. I went to the groin and it was a sizable left- the wave was weird kind of crumbly barreling thing – it was all about positioning. I got two waves. the first one was a nail biter – I really had to stay on the nose to avoid being white watered bt the crumbly lip- managed to stay on top of it. very heavy current also – along with high tide. got out after an hour. that one wave was worth it…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : clear with offshore. cleanish lines that were very nice – up to chest and shoulder high- entire beach was kind of working. nailed some very lefts and got some exte3nded nose action on one wave in particular – surfed pretty well. de waxed board afterwards in the B lot which took almost as long as the entire session
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : cloudy misty onshore – rough and tumble chopped up wedges at dox- nice crowd -some nice waves here and there even though it looked like utter rubbish from the B lot- once in the lineup it was like- “wow this is a pretty good wave with a nice old open section…”
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : didn’t look that big at the A lot pump house- a sort of barreling right (and left) but it got plenty bigger when I was out there. got caught inside and was worked a number of times. Score one nice speedy right that meandered all over the place
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : chilly 0vercast and chop in the water- also some onshore. but there were nice jumbled up wedges in front of the A lot. nice crowd including J, M, B , M. Couldn’t totally get it together – for some reason I was too deep on a number of waves and wound up boogie boarding the wave- but I did manage some wedge – a -mites…

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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : clear sky, windless and small at dox.  not many folk – just 4 of us trading off pleasant little knee high shoulders…
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