Month: August 2021

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : pretty damn good left peak at the creek. but filthy crowded so I opted for the less populace dox. there it was Lully – very Lully – but a nice clean waist high here and there would roll in. finally I decided to brave the crowd and paddled over to the creek. however the right started working so I stuck to that position- avoiding the real crowd who were clustered at the left take off slot. it was the better move as it was just starting to turn on with make-able corners. Slotted into some winners…
Stats/Video :

LMC back

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : grey and a little bumpy- but nice waver at the creek. surfed well and scored some outside rollers – tweaked back yesterday -getting out of car? lower right. it was okay surfing – but on land is SORE
Stats/Video :

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : overcast. windless. glassy. flattish. I would classify the waves as soft and lumpy. but they were clean little lumps that were fun to catch – run down the line a bit until they collapsed – and then ride the white water reform until my fin would hit the sand bottom… – also not really that crowded at all…
Stats/Video :