Month: November 2021

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Clear and clean – but a crowded mess at the creek. Dox was too swamped out with the tide for anything to break. First half hour I managed 3 okay waves – dodging soft toppers on the inside. Thereafter it was all downhill…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Gray and Misty. Clean conditions – flat on the south end. A pod was gathered just north of the A lot pump house offering little peaks – nabbed a few that were pretty good. Crowd was weird – mostly young males soft top beginners- I knew one surfer. Feeling a little of the pequot – fever. that night with chris and mo went to see stoltz at AMH – they wouldn’t let me in because they said I registered a 100 fever. eventually they did. went away in a couple of days
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : It was kinda sorta working in front of Taco Bell but still swamped out because of high tide. Up north however there was a right that was crumbling over and looked pretty good so I hit it. good move – the first 40 minutes were really good- nice little rights with some sets coming thru now and again. surfed good. managed a very weird kind of set wave that really stayed open- I managed to get both feet inches from the nose – for what seemed like an eternity. When I was looking down it just seemed very weird because it really was like I was surfing on air. The GAP between the nose of my board and the curl of the wave was sizable -nothing but air- it was like I was just floating…
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Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clear skies and glassy. However, high high tide had the south end way overloaded and swamped out. North end was too big for me – but was breaking nicely. I was gonna go to dox but at the last minute switched to Taco Bell – a straight out paddle. I hesitated because it was crowded and it was hella glare factor. the sets were not small – so I was afeared. but I overcame my fear and said “what the hey” I got two really nice outside swampy set waves that had umph to them on the takeoff and then had really nice clean open shouldered REFORMS…
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Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : strange wave day. action up North by the roundhouse but I felt it was too crowded. the rest of the beach was placid. then a peak would come by with a nice wave. a couple north of the A lot pump house. then a nice wave would break right in front of the A lot. then two really nice waves would break at Taco Bell. then a set would come in at pandas that was nice. with the exception of the north end – there was no consistent peak at the rest of the beach. so you would paddle to one area and then a nice wave would break somewhere else. then you would paddle to that somewhere else and wait and then a nice wave would break exactly at the place you just left. anyway I wound up paddling down tp pandibar and just waiting – just me and one other soft top kook. I wound up getting 3 or 4 small but nice clean close to shore nose rides that were fun…
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Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : My last wave you ask? It was pretty good. Clean and waist high Right for a zippy bit – then a hard pivot and we were going Left – for a nice clean little section -we were approaching shore but the wave opened up into yet another section – a pivot and Right again -a  little knee high open thingy-bobby that delivered us onto the sandy shore. Waves before that? Don’t ask.
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : I chased the dragon for two hours and got two waves of note- both were good – zippy open shouldered rights at the creek. The rest of the time was hunt and peck and abortions. here and there was a shortish ride – but still off my game. Then after about an hour and a half the onshore picked up and everything got choppy as all get out…
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Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : Clean. Crisp. blue Sky. Very mellow on the South end -little dribblers with little to no push that faded out just as the excitement began – that said they could have been milked but I was once again performing with flat feet…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Another clear bright AM at Linda. Very mellow – some knee high to waist high rights at the creek. Chris along for the ride – learning later from him about the mysteries of bitcoin – and NFT’s!
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