Month: August 2023

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.55
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Wow. Pretty damn good at the creek. First half hour was nice waist size and bigger – relatively smooth – with a slight offshore. Then it switched to onshore with alot of surface bump – but notched up a bit in size. Some nice lefts – but I had an outside MONSTER all alone and perfect position – but blew the pop up- had to body board the whole thing like a 75 year old kook with knee problems. It was hands down the wave of the morning – just a day late and a dollar short of the glory…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Well over 2.5 hours in the pod at the creek peak. Again some lugneaded local shortboard jabrones in the 26 person pile up at 715 am – so I let the left go – waited for the open right.The first hour was glassed off and really good – then the second hour it kind of detiriorated and wind added chop to the surface – but then the size picked up agin – so I stayed in for another 45 minutes. Later Tina and I went for birthday Bill brunch at Foreign Cinema with Eden – the Crete Crew back for an after action report – great day…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Energy in the water. A b it of size. At 715 am – 24 people in the pod on the Creek Peak. Some short board players to watch out for. The left was the better and longer ride – but it was a battle to get on the set waves- and then numbskulls right in the flight path. I opted for the right. A shorter ride but going the OPPOSITE direction of the crowd – so it was no dodging and weaving. Longer wait though for an open set wave to break- but they were coming through and I got a few. Definitely had to ABORT! ABORT! ABORT! a number of times at the last milli-second because a short-order was already on it (usually L) screaming down the line. Then the onshore wind kicked up and it all disappeared…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : God if it didn’t look micro/flat insurable from the the cam. But three people waiting in the creek pod and one of them was D. – so I headed down. Damn if it didn’t look micro/flat insurable from the B lot itself! However, a little bump would come in and BOOM- THERE WAS A LITTLE LINE – albeit a 3-7 second rides- but clean and glassy- I got a few – did a switch stance
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.55
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Wow- first hour was amazing- very clean – bordering on glass – some very nice waist highs – perfect -rolling thru at the creek – only 12 on it. but then it basically shut down after an hour – what happened?? Wish I had surfed better that first hour. My pop up was scary bad and I was always to deep. still got some nice ones…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Not bad- a little clean peak at the creak. Some nice lefts and the last one of them captured on the cam and soundtracked to a mystery band. Viewed here: https://vimeo.com/855221257
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.55
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Started out pretty good at the creek. Then it disintegrated into maximum lulliness, more people and flattened out…Later that day went to see Patti Smith at Stern Grove with Lammy and Deirdre. My god what a concert- her force- her power- her command over 5000 + people were something to behold – at 76!- inspirational- mind blowing what one person can do – the emotions and soul stirring they can whip up in THOUSANDS UPON THOUSANDS of people…
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LMN

Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Pretty damn good. The same little peak – north of the A lot. The south end was pretty small – not dead flat but close to it. Today the peak was better groomed and I surfed really well – right after right. Dawn patrol had me at 21 waves and I would say there were about 14 decent rides in that bunch – almost exclusively Rights. It was a very much”LEFT GO RIGHT” kinda of session – you definitely had to paddle in left – pop up to an immediate severe pivot right – then you were off to the races…
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