Month: July 2024

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Clean and knee top chest/shoulder at dox. got pretty crowded and I had a hard time picking off something. Managed a few – in the end my last wave was really nice – not a set wave but well groomed
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LTB

Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Could not make anything happen. poor conditions and even worse performance – not sure why I even went in – but it looked like there were makable sections here and there – from Taco Bell to boat dox and back to Taco Bell – nothing but foam in that wave burrito…
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NS flt

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NS

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NS cut foot

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LMB / KK

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ?
Performance : ?
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Well it was the Kahuna and they set up south of Taco Bell. Definitely was a little bit a swell in the water – when sets came they were heavy closeout – across the board – tomahawk style. There was supposed to be five people in my Heat but only three of us paddled out. (You needed the 5 minutes this year to scramble out to the line up before the sets) Just me, and H and S- we looked at each other and said – top three advance so I guess we all get into the final. I managed one semi decent wave for last place in the Heat- yet still advanced into the final because of the two no shows. At 4:00 PM the conditions were much different. Strong wind and it had gotten super jacked. Because of the cut on my foot I was thinking about maybe bagging it – plus news had just been released that a “school shooter” type kid had taken a pot shot at Trump- so the vibe was kind of ominous. However, I paddled out anyway – five of us in the Final with one no show (M?). The sets were pretty scary. Windblown monsters. I took off on a right but somehow – no doubt due to my skills- skidded off the top portion of the wave and missed a really nice section. The next heat horn came meaning five minutes left. As I turned to paddle out I came face to face with a huge wind whipped wall coming straight at me – smack in the impact zone. I didn’t really know what to do. I just stopped and thought – it’s going to break and I’ll just white wash it in. Then I realized it was a binary choice- either scratch over the beast or have it detonate on my head. I paddled like hell- – I had to paddle cross wise over the face and just barely made it- I felt the back of the wave trying to whirlpool me back into the murky depths – But I made it. A short-order in the next heat said “dude – I did not think you were going to make it over that thing.” Anyway out of 5 I got fifth- KH surfed great under challenging conditions and took the deserved first slot. A default sippy cup participation 5th surf trophy goes up on the shelf…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : minus*
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Nice bunch of waves at the dox. However , this was – I believe- the worst singular surfing performance of my entire life. It was like I just got on a surfboard that morning. Truth be told – yesterday I sliced my foot down the center on a rock – a not insignificant cut. On the fence on stitches. But Tina patched it up pretty good last night – but I was still walking with a limp. Still – cut to no cut- shameful king kook performance
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