Month: October 2024

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.40
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : al 95
Notes : Struggling at the creek with the barbell board – ny god its like surfing on top of a World War Two Torpedo. I managed a few here and there’s …
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.35
Rating : ***
Performance : *+
Board : AL green 86
Notes : What a struggle with the short green board. hindered by the fact I had a fin in it that was way too big. I just flown dared on the waves. I did manage – finally- a set wave – head high left that I was able to cobble together on the board- and cut back – albeit in elegantly… at least I got something on the potato chip…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : MD 95
Notes : Wild and unruly at the creek- most close outs – found it hard to connect with anything – especially with the heavy ass board…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : MD 95
Notes : Wild and wooly at the creek. Swishy washy with wedges all over the place – yet enough clean faces to get a couple of Rights
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Some nice little waves in front of the A lot pump house. I surfed pretty good and managed some nicely walled lefts – god what a difference from yesterday. However when I got out of the water the underside of the boards had a slice in it s upper half between the bifurcated stringer. Had no idea how it happened – especially for such a significant ding. Off to Sonlight/Woody and got MD 1.0 off the office wall – my GOD THAT BOARD IS FUCKING HEAVY
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am /2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : md 2.0
Notes : I surfed horrifically for two hours before my heat. At 12 during my heat The first 4 minutes I surfed okay and thought- “maybe this is my year”. Alas, it went downhill for the remaining 11 minutes. When I came out of the water someone thru a rotten egg at me and said “you suck”. A 12 year old girl tripped me on my leash which made the crowd roar with laughter because I fell on my face and got sand in my nostrils which caused me to throw up in front of the judges table. But it was fun …
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Location : LMB/C
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : It was one of those “too crowded at the Creek so I’ll start out at the dox until the tide rises too much and flattens out the waves and then I’ll paddle over to the zoo at the creek and battle it out for a couple of real fast zippy right handers” kind of session.
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.35
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Size was in the offing so the Creek was abandoned for calmer dox waters. Some nice sets coming through, Very distinct INSIDE wave. Then sitting outside waiting for the sets – another story altogether. Giving myself a 3 though I don’t really deserve it but for a couple of waves. I surfed quite poorly over all- blew more waves than I made…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.35
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Clean, glassy, well groomed creek. Some A frames. Not that big – but the occasional set. Got an absolute screamer right that stayed open – green faced little thingy bobby – quite nice…
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