Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Well Linda was a zoo at dox – also it was big. On the spur of the moment we decided to spiral down to SC and it was the right choice. We rolled in SC (where the alot of the white faces in that village of the damned seemed to both of us just a little too suspiciously gleeful) and headed straight to Privates. Everywhere was packing so it was a good choice and the tide was right. We both got some waves despite the crowd. I locked into an outside SET wave that was a really really big highlight. One of my largest waves (at least it felt that way) in the last 2 or three months. In fact I can pinpoint exactly when I felt I had a wave that big before – it was in Ventura at C street maybe a year and a half ago. Glad I held on and kept it together on the fucking thing. There was a short boarder also on it- but he was behind the section – I kept thinking he was gonna power around the section and come up on my ass – but he never made it. GLORY WAVE.
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Month: November 2024
LMB
Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : md 2.0
Notes : It was Linda Zoo with Gina and Kevin and Chuck. I floundered for a while – but finally paddled over to boat dox where it started to pick up – finally at last snagged a half decent ride and surfed it half way competently. That night everyone and anyone was at Deirdre and Allisons and Rommels art opening at the old lost church – everyone commiserating and pontification and predicting while soaking in the ART
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NS soul grind
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Notes : Gina up from LA. We looked but it was mostly close outs – or exclusively close outs. Did a pass and had a bagel at soul grind – what T2 is going to do to the Nation – soul grind
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LMB
Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Small and clean at dox. Not many of us out there. From the B lot it looked like nothing – but there was the occasional very nice clean left coming thru – like a surprise “gift” wave from Neptune. Felt good to get out…
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NS T2Nightmare
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LMB
Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2,0
Notes : mushy choppy stuff at dox – not bad session
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LMB
Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Big at dox. Managed one decent set wave
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NS
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LMB
Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Not bad at boat dox
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LMC
Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Super crowded . Nice set waves at dox but I couldn’t connect – got pushed out of most waves because of someone else. Good waves but not sure why it was SO crowded. I have been there with similar type waves, at the same time 715 am and surfed it with 3 or 4 people. Today it was over 30 at dox. I paddled over to the creek – but it was macking close outs that I couldn’t get into – I kept aborting waves that I thought might have a shoulder but were actually just tomahawk close outs…
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