Month: January 2025

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Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : md 2.0
Notes : There were waves – more up by Crespi according to T. but I stubbornly stayed just North of Taco Bell hoping against hope that a clean Right would swing wide and carry me open face glory. It was not to be – surfed awful.
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Ho hum at the creek and I could’t connect except for one wave where I surfed well and did a severe cutback surprising even myself
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Location : Malibu Vid 2
Time/Length : am/ 2.35
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 94 al md
Notes : Another well groomed but small day at the ‘Bu. Got crowded pretty quickly. Took me a while to get in line but eventiually found a few gems. Iacoppi beans with leftover steak salad. Cut to comp vid2
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Location : Topanga
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : al md 94
Notes : Only bust day of the week. Onshore – hard to get into – and crowded to boot. Oh well. Afterwards walk 2 miles to market with Mikel and Tina to pick up steaks that Mikel cooks that night w/ mushrooms and Brussels. (Kevin and Carolyn visit that afternoon having just dropped Max off at college…
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Location : Malibu
Time/Length : am/2.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : AL md 94
Notes : Another small but well groomed session. Left early so we start w/relatively small crowd + most folk are up at C street/Ventura where it is much better/larger. That afternoon we pack chicken salad Sammy’s that I made and head up to the commune/cabins of Gina and Harper. Spend the afternoon walking around their cabin and taking with Harper and other members of the collective. Pick top fresh halibut at the reel inn on way back and have it with salad.
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Location : Malibu
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : al md 94
Notes : Small Malibu – but nicely groomed. Head to lodge bread for Sammy’s that we eat outside of LACMA which housed the Simone Leigh exhibit – who financed Mikels Cesaire film
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