Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Back to Privates with Tina- beautiful AM fide on 1. super low tide at privates. just me and a couple of SUPS out. Sets still came and I was the only one there to get them. lined up with the staircase. eventually folk showed up as the tide started to rise opting to go to the main point at privates. in the distance Sharks looked kind of big.i stayed put at the staircase waiting for the barreling set waves to SWING WIDE leaving me with that open shoulder . god I scored a number of them- I kept ahead of sections and really rode the end of the board – riding REAL high and IN THE POCKET on the set waves. my last wave gave me the four- I made threee sections – and made those because I kept in the critical pocket – riding high and tight- that last wave – I don’t know how I made it through those sections onto the open shoulders – I was sure I was gonna get blown off the wave by the lip – but I made it thru each time…
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