Location : Malibu Time/Length : am/2.25 Rating : **** Performance : ****+ Board : MD 94 Port type Notes : It was the round trip surfari. We decided to first check out up North at C street – but it was pretty big and windy. The point was making so we headed on down the coast stopping at staircases, then Leo Carilla then Zeroes. All were beautiful to see but because of the tide just a tad shy of perfect. Topanga was a different story- packed beyond packed with perfect screaming waist to head high longboard screamers. Cam at Malibu looked EMPTY! So we headed there. Parking lot was not even half full. Chad Marshall was there and the musician farmer Dave that Gina knew. To my eyes -Malibu looked perfect – but small and Lully perhaps. About 5 people on the inside and 5 people (and one asshole obnoxious 70 year old “you kids get off my wave” absolute SUP schmuck.). Really pretty empty. On a weekend holiday Saturday. We started out inside and I really couldn’t find my groove. The lineup actually started to get even MORE empty and I decided -after a kooky hour- to head out to First Point. It was just me and another kid. Finally a waist high screamer came my way – a really Surfride Malibu wave – absolute knock out perfection. I went back out and got two more of those numbers – then went back into the inside. A nice little number came my way – very small but I was positioned perfectly. The wave LIFTED me up and the DIRECTED me to the NOSE. It was so EASY to stay right on the edge of the board – wobbling as I went down the little knee size line. Technically – as far as nose riding- the longest and best nose ride I ever had in my life. That I know for sure. (Fortunately it was captured on the Surfline cam and I set it to a track by the consummate LA outside/insider – Jeffrey Lee Pierce) That night Tina and I made Stepladder Bison burgers on Ezekiel bread toasted with cultured butter and melted goat cheese and topped with Chimmichurri. Homemade Hash browns and a Gina goat cheese arugula salad! Stats/Video :
