LM

Location : LM
Time : AM & PM
Length : 3.5
Rating : ***
PERF : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Well it was the big chill out today – 25th anniversary. My heat started at 930 clean and sunny but lumpy and dumpy. I lucked out position wise and got my four waves fairly quickly- well before the two horns signaling 5 minutes left in the heat. I advanced to the semis which happened at 1130. Tide filled in making for better conditions and more open faces. Again I surfed well but wasn’t sure… About 45 minutes later they put the results up on the board – I inched into the finals At 4pm. The final crop of six were all way above my cut- born and bred year long surfers from the time they were knee high. Standing on shore waiting for the two horn blast signaling we could begin paddling out was memorable. In my red jersey holding my board with the other guys I realized I was fulfilling some long deep fantasy… From a time when I was maybe 15 or 16 and picking up surfer magazine in a lower east side magazine store and dreaming about some soul surfing rock and roll California utopia. Two blasts and we six paddled out- the surf had gotten bigger. In the lineup the speakers suddenly started went from some hot tuna live jam into floods wish you were here. Fuck if I wasn’t in some kind of heaven. I was positioned well for my first wave – a monster- the others said yea- but I wasn’t outside enough – too deep – going left I clutched my rail thinking I could make the drop and seize the glory. Alas- it was not to be – the wave blasted me ass over end and worked me to the bottom.two more semi okay rides. Then a fourth and final redemption ride solid left ending with a spin switch foot. First done. The others were patient and rocked it with nose perching perfection ride after ride. They all seemed like pros to me. T and H – better surfers than me would be lucky with 4th or 5th. All in all just a glorious day…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5188 http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5191 http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5200