Month: October 2015

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 92
Notes : Massive swell closing out on the north end so it was straight to B lot. Caught nothing the first half hour. Lumpy, dumpy and crowded as hell – just couldn’t connect. Then – abruptly- things shifted. The crowd thinned out and waves started arriving. Milked some nice lefts. Two jabroni’s paddled out drinking – I think beers. They had the cans tucked into the front part of their wetsuit. They were both very drunk. They acted like frat boys in a sports bar 15 minutes before last call is announced. S. seemed to know them – will inquire.
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=6003

C

Location : C
Time/Length : AM/1.45
Rating : *****
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Gonna have to give it a five. I knew it would happen at Cap. 1850 joules predicted up and down the coast. I knew Capitola would be the most forgiving and doable. Prepped the night before- coffee, fruit, water, breakfast Sammy. Rolling by 630 am in the pre dawn fog. At County Line the fog broke and the sun blasted over the mountains giving me my first few of the waves. Massive. One was lined with cars on BOTH sides of the highway. Some serious muscle bound norcal dewds paddling out. What if Capitola was too big? I started to think of a contingency. Straight to Cowells. Park in a lot and hoof it up the hill. Rolling into Capitola it was a lull. 15 people in the scrum- far out by the jetty. It was 8 AM. The first set arrived. Gant (for me) crumblers. Maybe 10 foot the big outside ones? Maybe just 8? Sets seemed to have a lot of waves- then it went dead flat. I knew I could manage the paddle out in the lull so I suited up and attached the gadgets – trace satellite – go pro – watch- maybe I should head strap to mount a TV screen so I can watch re-reruns of curb your enthusiasm during the lulls. On the beach (what was left of it given it was a very high rising tide) I briefly considered paddling out by the jetty. This was a shorter paddle overall but put you smack in the middle of the scrum and if you timed it wrong directly in the impact zone. I decided to paddle diagonal – due south. That way I knew if I timed it wrong I could probably clear any breaking (right) wave on the shoulder. Paddled hella fast with deep strokes but timed it like Papillion – Dry hair. No seaweed out in the lineup, which was nice. I stayed far to the left of the scrum be cause I knew sets were plentiful and big enough that something outside would come my way. Indeed they did. A woman in the lineup was telling me the exact location of where “old Nasty” was located (a notorious boulder on the inside which many a fin and bone have broken). Then she said, “here comes a monster” She was right. Everybody started paddling out. I caught a glimpse of something even bigger behind the one bearing down on us. Since I was left of the scrum I was in the best position and started paddling furiously diagonally and to the South. It seemed everyone was paddling to get to my safe zone position. I made it over the first (two strokes paddling UP the wave) to see the shadow mountain approach me. I basically in perfect position – easily knew this would be one of the biggest waves of my life. I took off. Rather I was launched down the side of the face. At first I felt in control – but time seemed to stand still and gain speed at the same time. I tried to ride it high but I couldn’t get to the top of the face. It felt like my board was breaking up (like the beginning of the six million dollar man … I can’t hold it I can’t hold it she’s breaking up she’s breaking up) I started to panic because the wave was closing around me (or rather bearing down on me) what was frustrating was I could almost grasp the open face – a clean line so long it seemed to stretch down to Manresa but I couldn’t pull the board around the section and I got swallowed. The wave sort of grabbed me and I tumbled down the rest of the face over my board. Somehow however I went under somewhat briefly and was sort of spit out the back end like a catapult. Wow I thought not that traumatic. Lately at Linda I have been biting into the waves- being cavalier and taking chances. Today, I surfed cautiously and selected my waves carefully and giving them a wide berth and benefit of the doubt. I made one poor decision- going for a wave hard and missing it. It left me deep in the impact zone with a set approaching. I cursed loudly and started paddling diagonally trying to outrun a wave to the shoulder. Two surfers took off on it. Fortunately I was able to paddle between them –missing a 3-board collision. Broke all sorts of personal stats – Longest ride: 278 yarder – will take a while to beat that Distance paddled = 1.8 miles . Fastest speed 22.3 mph Video doesn’t translate the power. The Bolinas vid was much better. In retrospect maybe I should make that day a 5? Today however felt bigger than Bolinas – but what do I know?
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5947
https://vimeo.com/142029251?utm_source=email&utm_medium=clip-transcode_complete-finished-20120100&utm_campaign=7701&email_id=Y2xpcF90cmFuc2NvZGVkfDE4ZmQ2Yzc2OGQ0ZWZmMjU2YTVkMjdlYWRlNzBhMThjOTY3fDE1NDMyNjgzfDE0NDQ1MzIxODF8NzcwMQ%3D%3D

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : **+
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Wasn’t much to speak of – ‘cept a micro-peak between volleyballs and hotels. surfed rather well so it turned out better than expected session. on my last ride (#13 in stats) i had an awkward too deep sideways take off. i fully expected to not make it but i somehow managed to make it – turned into a nice wave
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5891

M

Location : M
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 92
Notes : Plan was for the Hook but woke up late. As predicted Lindy -even on the North end – was nano-peak. C. suggested Montara. I hemmed and hawed but agreed. It was the right call. South end was swampy beack break that heaved and yawned with an open corner that literally broke on the beach. We huffed it up to Middles Montara. Less shore-breaky – but still heaving with turbulent heaviness. When you got in you shot down the open face like a rocket. No time for any elegant dismount-just rag dolled into the sand. Speed record according to Trace-almost 21 MPH on one wave. Still somehow blowin montara sand out my nose…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5849

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Very solid 4. Clear windless at first -then light cross off shore. Clean longish lefts and rights. I mainy stuck to the right. Surfed well.Some gal had words w/E -of all people- e being arguably one of the nicest and most adept surfers at LM. I don’t know what happened only heard her yelling at him. She herself could barely surf. Scandolous!
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5717

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM / 2.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : It dropped a little from yesterday but in a good way. Waves were better groomed – outside sets held up better. I went from Taco Bell to Boatdox then finally settled on the right at the creek. Waves everywhere and not as crowded. 163 yards – new record as far as distance- it was a right at the creek- rode it well from top to bottom gaining speed -something I haven’t really done before. Sunny – cloudless slight chop in the water.
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5679

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/1.10
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 92
Notes : Well it was huge for me- 1100 joules. Straight to the B lot which was already almost full at 815. Massive closeout slabs from Taco Bell to up North. Thus, everyone was squeezed between boatdox and the creek. Wasn’t even sure if I could punch out – but there were lulls. I watched and waited. Lots of folk in the water that should not have been there … but it was sunny and light wind so it was wall to wall floating jabronis. Timed it well and made it out fairly easily. Didn’t go to boatdox proper cause it was too crowded. Caught some girthy slabbish waves – they crumbled over and sloped on the outside (where I caught them) then reformed and went hollow on the inside. Stats show a 167 harder – new record for me. My last wave was a pretty big left which I thought I was lined up perfectly for- but it pitched up at the last second and I realized I was too deep. I hugged my board and managed to tilt it left and managed to maneuver around a section billboarding the wave – then got on my feet and caught a decent section-albeit jerboa dodging. Got out more because too many people – felt skittish and in the end wasn’t surfing as well as I should have
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5650

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 92
Notes : Today was supposed to be the day. 161 joules. But it was closeout city up by volleyballs with 30 people in the pod.T drove up next to me in the A lot. The he re strted his car. “I’m going to the B lot -its better groomed by the creek” I followed him and -of course- he was right. Not many folk but the only peak that stayed open -cleanish – sun and no fog- a couple of gems
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5616