Month: January 2016

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : This morning – just past cockcrow- I found some spirited breakers for plank gliding at Yee Merry Old Linda Mar. Fortunately, I captured it on my cinema device…
Stats/Video : https://vimeo.com/152647629

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 94
Notes : It was supposed to be great. It looked promising from the B lot. Just couldn’t connect. Dribs and drabs here and there. It had some size and power also. I just couldn’t find those open corners.
Stats/Video : ordered a new trace. the other one lies in underwater near capital’s old nasty. perhaps someone with a metal detector will find it on a super low tide-plug it in and return it to me one day…

NS

Location : NS
Time/Length :
Rating :
Performance :
Board :
Notes : Went down… poring rain but cleaned up. Hella offshore. About 10 folk in the water. It was appealing. However not quite. If it was a little better formed i would have joined the mix. Plus -the water was LITERALLY the color of milk chocolate. Am hoping that is due to top soil run off…
Stats/Video :

C

Location : C
Time/Length : AM/1.50
Rating : ****
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : LM was still a bit of a mess. 90% closeouts by boatdox. 20 people fightin for the rideable 10% – which were nice. Decided to head down to Capitola. Good call. It was low level foggy- couldn’t see folk out in the lineup – but you knew they were out there. Water was filthy brown. Rip was very heavy. When I got past the fog line you could see plenty of folk (10-15?) in the lineup. Heavier than it looked. Some overhead. Wide breaking. After a hard hour the fog bank broke and everything became clear blue. On my last wave I took an overhead monster. First time that I could see THE SHADOW OF THE LIP in front of me as I tried to beat the whitewater. Managed to stay on the wave- it sloped into another magnificent REFORM. 500 yards??? Quite possibly. Wouldn’t know because the trace was washed off the board…
Stats/Video : somewhere in the pacific…

NS

Location : NS
Time/Length :
Rating :
Performance :
Board :
Notes : Almost went in. Looked at it for a long time. 15K joules w/ a surf advisory so I take that shit seriously. That said folk were out by boat dox (many who had no business being in the water). Non close out waves came through – if you had the corner your could carve a position – but it always ended in a brutal closeout. Then a set would come in- tomahawk clean up close out- board snapping ferocious- then… calm for 15 minutes- something would come thru and i would say maybe… just maybe if I am careful.In the end I said NO.
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 92
Notes : Not much to speak of. A lot of energy- mostly close outs. Pain in the ass to get out. Waves would jack up at the last second then tomahawk close-out. Very hollow. If you were on the corner however you could get a nice fast hollow ride. Somehow the bottom of my board got dented/gashed. Have no idea how. Took it in to get sewed up…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=11347

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : – *
Board : 92
Notes : Can I give myself a min us 1 for performance? I can and I will. There were waves out there it’s just every time I tried to catch one they kind of disappeared from my reach. When I first got out T2 nearly ran me over … I saw the collision coming and yelled … he flashed me the peace sign and glided around me – three perfect waves then arrived …. I missed each one. The third I took off late and had to body board the wave as I watch perfect glass unfurl before me on the left. Got some dribs and drabs … paddling everywhere. After catching a mediocre right by boatdox I stood and watched D2 SUP into a head high right N. of Taco Bell. I got out and walked down the beach and paddled out between TB and the A lot pump house. D2 said “you followed me out here huh?” Guilty as charged. I waited. A right didn’t come. It was a left. Beautiful, glassy , About to pitch hollow but I was perfectly positioned. I rifled down and into the pocket – I raced down a great section… I saw it closing out on me … I couldn’t make it around the section and that was all she wrote. nevertheless a nice ride. Redemption wave.
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=11244.

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : It looked miserable. Cloudy and super closed out. But it seemed like you could snag a corner by the creek. It was okay – got some action AND THEN – after 30 minutes it completely changed. Totally cleaned up- sets started coming – very cleanish A frames- the sun came out. All in the course of a half hour. Caught some nice clean rides with oomph. B6 carvin it up on a leasheless old skewl shortboard…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=11106

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Pretty dang-durn good out there. A frames breaking by the pump house. A frames breaking by taco bell. A frames breaking by the creek. Plus boat dox was working. Clean. No wind. Partly sunny. Had a killer left. Had a killer right that was sloping and then hollowed out to the extreme – I was right in the pocket -lotta speed for that board to handle- apparently over 20 mph on that particular wave – real fast for me especially at linda mar.
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=11045