Month: January 2016

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/!.50
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 92
Notes : Some girth and heaviness to the waves. Over by the creek. Crisp and hollow. Had to be in the right place then you had a ride- hollows- no room for mistakes. I lurked mostly around the creek. Tried to surf with panache and an outlandish existentialist flair in honor of DB. Can’t believe he left the building. ashes to ashes going thru my head the entire sesh…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=10979

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.50
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 92
Notes : W/Andrew H. Stuff was out there. Crowded pod at Taco Bell. Again – rather wide breaking. Tons of people ( a summer crowd) at the Taco Bell peak. Caught some decent rights – but couldn’t really connect and underperformed. Paddled over near boatdox just to get some space. Some folk were scoring – log carving on some open canvases – heavy but not intimidating. Afterward we went up top of pedro hill to get a gander from above at the point. Two people were surfing the cove- first time I had seen that. Nice big lines coming through at the point but no one on it because it was breaking right on that rock shaped like a sharks fin that just out just right of the point…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=10884.

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.50
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 92
Notes : Well finally back in the game. 30 people crowded at Crespi. i was hoping something would break by the A lot pump house – but it just wouldn’t break. I huffed up north to join the crowd. M2 and some local long boarders – had to watch where you were going. Somewhat heavy- wide breaking – shortish rides – but a little meaty. On the way out met Andrew H. – in town for a trial so we will do the LM attack tomm. Apparently B1 had his board split in two! Heavier than I thought…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=10803

NS

Location : NS
Time/Length :
Rating :
Performance :
Board :
Notes : Went down to B lot. Some action- wide breaking waves -alot of energy- some sizable clean up sets by the creek and boatdox- nice wide open shoulders- in the end decided not to go- still not feeling 100%- would have needed a lot of paddle power if I got caught inside- went back to the car – tail between my legs – bone dry wetsuit slung over my shoulder…
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 92
Notes : Big ominous wedges under a bruised sky- you could tell big storms are a coming. Pedro point was breaking massive- 3 people were out at the point taking off on the monsters. It was not very crowded- relatively clean – an occasional offshore GUST. Action was by the creek and boatdox. Outside sets had girth and power- they folded over and rolled in-a right by the creek and a left by boat dox (but not extreme boatdox) I snagged some wedges w/D. The wide breaking gem eluded me. My last wave pitched up severely but I was positioned well – a right – it got steep and started to close in on me – somehow I managed to stay on the wave but I have ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA how I kept my balance. I wish I could say I was powering through the sections but I was more baffled – why am I still standing on this wave??? Finally it seemed to collapse around me and I went left but still hung on – twittering like charlie chaplin on the deck of the boat in the movie Gold Rush- I steadied myself and realized the wave now was reforming on the right. I turned sharply and had another nice ride- a right -in full control-ending virtually on the ramp of a boat dox shack. Stats give the ride 200 yards – new LM record. The ride felt more like luck than any intentional skill on my part…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=10484