Month: March 2016

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 94
Notes : Big, clean and offshore. A battle to get into the wave. Surfing poorly. Found myself paddling after a wave then getting blown off it by the offshore. On another wave I realized I should not have paddled for it a little too late. I jumped off the board a literally did a free fall at the arc of the – in the air falling face up as the wave came down on me. I think it was my first “free fall”. Spooked I went further down south. Caught a big sloping giant and called it a day
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=16390.

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 94
Notes : Great waves this time in front of Taco Bell- the right. Problem was I was kind of surfing poorly. I was going for waves that I should have mad that I blew. And for that poor performance I was upbraided. It was kinda crowded and I noticed at the right by taco bell there was an older short board hot dog 360’ing on a lot of the waves (But not BB). I considered moving to the creek to avoid him but felt the waves were just too good at TB so I went into the mix. An hour into the mesh I took off on a wave. Someone dropped in right in front of me and I said “HEY”. It turned out to be that fucking guy. He proceeded to do a bunch of cutbacks in front of me and I actually said “sorry” and cut left into the whitewater. My thinking was “you are a better surfer and though you cut me off you can have the wave. Nevertheless, my olive branch to the jabroni went unappreciated. Paddling back out he turned to me and said agree like something along the lines of: “don’t fuckin complain when someone cuts in after you blow a bunch of waves.” I said nothing. I guess the logic is: “you had the chance at a lot of good waves and you missed them so you deserve to be dropped in on and have no right to complain about that fact.” Thing is it was true – I did blow a lot of waves. Didn’t know he was paying so much attention to me. I remember a similar argument years ago from the DUNDER at the HOOK. He screamed at me once when I was priority taking off on a right saying: “NO this is me you already blew two of my waves” I had know idea that I “blew” two of the DUNDERS waves. I guess the thinking is “I let you have the wave AND/OR you were in position for the wave and you either blew the wave and/or UNDERPERFORMED on a good wave therefore you can be dissed
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=16298

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Pretty damned good out there. Taking the right directly in front of the pump house. Some longish fantastic lines. Every spot seemed to be working so people were spread out. Surfed pretty good…
Stats/Video : trace on the fritz

SCH

Location : SCH
Time/Length : AM/2.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : LM was working but had to be in SC to p/u and drop off a wetsuit repair. C was flat so straight to the Hook and fortunately the parking lot had a lot of empty spaces. A good sign for me that the waves were small enough that most folk were elsewhere. Tp my surprise NO ONE in the water. It was high tide but some nice clean sets were coming in – very ridable indeed. I watched as local folk came by on their bikes and poo-pooed it… it would rank a gold star at Lincoln. Finally a surf lesson suited up and so did I… never go in alone. A couple also quickly followed me. We had it all to ourselves for 45 minutes = great glassy rights. Then folk got wise and started marching down the stairs- but it never got crowded – great mesh and surfed well-love the hook on these kind of days
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=16147

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.45
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : WOW. Clean and glassy- sunny and windless. Broad breaking rights breaking on the outside at Taco Bell. Sloping faces that went hollow on the inside. Has one spectacular ride where after a nice take off and clean wedge the wave hollowed out- it was literally breaking on my back for what seemed like a long time-I raced trying to beat the section not sure if I would be pitched off by the lip. But I made the section and another clean face offered itself up. Lots of nice rides like that… also lots of dodgeball and near misses with people sitting exactly in the impact zone. Had to abort a number of sweet rides b/c afeared I would crsh land on top of some soft top lolling on the inside. All rides were under 200 yards but fast and thrilling.
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=16054

C

Location : C
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Quirky day at Cap. sunny and windless. Breaking outside near the first jetty. Kind of lumpy -you had to jigsaw together rides w/the reform. T3 from Linda in the lineup. Perfectly placed for my final ride – an outside set wave. Up immediately – no bottom turn – up high on the trim. In front of my right lay a long clear glass line. However, as if the carpet had been pulled out from under the wave it completely folded over. Quite surprising. I got ahead of the whitewater but it was hard to stabilize. Plus I was still far outside so the wave was taking people out left and right – who I had to dodge. I headed left sort of into but ahead of the crest- I was now in another pocket – the reform. I banked right and headed down another long right. I held on to the end thinking “this might break 300 yards.” Indeed it did -Trace has it at 300.3 yards. Broke the barrier.
Stats/Video : Weird: http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=15877

O

Location : O
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Fell back in love w/cowells today. High surf advisory for the entire coast. WhenI looked at the Capitola cam it looks like a very low tide and doable so I headed down. However, when I got to Capitola and watched and waited I got scared. Every 10 minutes massive hollow bombs shattered the lineup. Between sets it seemed do able but then every 10 minutes those bombs came and i was having none of it. Plus only 5 people in the lineup – 3 really good short boarders and twp people on longboards way out of there league. Drove up to Cowells. It was large and breaking all around- but the extreme low tide made it seem very inviting – you could almost walk out. Truth be told once out there you really needed to paddle far outside and get into the “slot”. They were bombs -kinda frightening. Plus lots of flotsam and jetsam in the water from the storms. I got some reforms which were good. I “slotted” into only one bomb – a steep drop that then folded into a wedge /slope. The drop was great then pull up to the lip then almost immediately you had to cut back and surf into the whitewater … cool wave
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=15787