Month: April 2016

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : I loath calling the sacred “fun”. (When you ask someone “how was Mass – “fun” is the wrong answer. Moving deep sacred spiritual perhaps) That said, waves today were super fun. Drizzly bit glassy. Knee high to waist high peak at Taco Bell. Short little rights, very clean lines. At first not many folk on it but that lasted the first 45 minutes. Then it got crowded – but crowded w/players – really good long boarders dancing twirling and nosin’…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=17873

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Overcast w/strong offshore. Action in front of Taco Bell. No shoulder waves- after breaking they would crumble with almost no pitch or slope. If you tried to get ahead of the curl you surfed into flat water. Sometimes outside sets would come- got a few of those- they had more umpph. Pretty good also getting into the set wave because the face just stood up in the wind
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=17800

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : not bad. less size then yesterday. strong offshore and a weirdly hella hot day.. the peak was north of the a lot pump house but also in front of taco bell and also in front of the creek. i elected the taco bell right. you had to be right on it- there was no shoulder… the wave invited you in and then let no other suitors…In the line up was Yanni- excited most folk because he had moved down south some two years ago- back in the line up for a visit – a gentle soul- solid dude- gentlemen- and real fun to surf with…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=17737

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Back in the saddle. Very nice in front of taco bell. Clear and no wind-not glassy but cleaning with a slight surface bump/chop. They were sloping wedges – some outside ones were head high. It got crowded REAL quick. Scored some real nice ones w/folk whooping and hollering as I went down the line. A dolphin did a 3/4 breach 10 yards out. Then 2 minutes later another dolphin surfaced practically on top of my board. It scared the living shit out of me and I jumped back on my board and let out a girlish lit yelp that other folk found somewhat funny. It was so close I could see the scar tissue on its fin- it also snorted loudly – almost sounding like the bray of a horse- i was sprayed with seawater from its spout –is that basically dolphin snot????. Later in the parking lot A filled me in on D’s injury. Shore break at the creek. he hit bottom and became IMMOBILIZED underwater. Just as he was about to give up he got sensation back on his foot and pushed up and screamed. Folk carried him in. He walked around for two days very sore and tingling before going to doctor. Immediate surgery – broken back – vertebrae fusion – neck cast for six months. So harsh. Right there at linda. You can never be too cautious and even then…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=17658

NS

Location : NS
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Notes : Fly back to SF. catching up. Will i remember how to serf tomm.????????????
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NS

Location : NS
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Stats/Video : films in brooklyn – pat and mike -nichols midnight special. tina and gina – chantal ackermann. At BAM.That night Albertos all w/Mom. great trip.