Month: August 2016

O

Location : O
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 92 asp
Notes :down to cowells. most times cowells is tiered so all the surf school folk are on the inside so you just paddle way outside and wait for the big ole gems to puh through. today however it wasn’t really breaking outside – just one point with all the surf school kids and beginners and good servers competing at the same take off spot. it was a challenge. i did get one very interesting wave. almost shoulder high and three people just blindly took off in front of me – beginners. The first person i literally picked up the nose of his board and gently move it over to the side and said sorry to him. The second person i also picked up by the nose of the board and moved aside. at that point i was shocked i was still on my board – but the wave was still pumpin and one more person was in front of me. They looked back at me and saw me coming up on her- i stepped on the nose and managed to race in front of her- the rest of the ride was great – open and free – i kind of was in shock at what i had done…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=32271.