Month: January 2017

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Hard drizzle, strong 15 20 offshore. Folk out at the creek taking a stay open left. Some were at the right by taco bell. Some OB short board ringers on the left- just brazenly hopping on waves and generally acting like jock fucking shit ass arrogant fuck wads. Went over to the right- caught a magical one – perfectly positioned- don’t even think i ever saw any white water- just standing up in the wind – right on the top of the lip – trim city- got out
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=60521

SCH

Location : SCH
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : not as clean as yesterday. still hardly any people. i wound up actually going to first bowl because everyone was clustered around second bowl (usually the opposite is true) the swell picked up considerably- got kind of warmly- folk started showing up. i paddled back to second bowl and got some head highs
Notes : not as clean as yesterdi wound up actually going to first bowl because everyone was clustered around second bowl (usually the opposite is true) the swell picked up considerably- got kind of warmly- folk started showing up. i paddled back to second bowl and got some head highs ay. still hardly any peop
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=59748.

SCH

Location : SCH
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Only 5 people all at first bowl. I went all the way over to second bowl. Small perfect glass knee to shoulder- one or two head highs. perfect conditions because the tide was going low- i hate surfing hook – even small hook- when the tide is rising because ima feared of getting trapped. by the end of the session some real good longboarders showed up but the swell had kind of died down even more
Stats/Video : ?

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.50
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Damn near butt-in right up against a 4 star. started off slow but kept getting better. crisp softish lines in front of the taco bell – they folded over soft so you had to cut back to get the reform – which could be another substantial ride. Friggin cold. The left at the creek started really working also. B6 and crew (with other really good long boarders were on it big time. So, I stayed at my right at the taco bell which seemed to have a bunch of not very good surfers so i got a goodly number of waves that came through. I wondered why all the good long boarders were on the creek left- i felt the taco bell right was steeper faster and more substantial. whatevs… felt like i had rides well in excess yardage wise of what trace clocked- that yardage was PURE FACE TIME
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=59340.