O

Location : O
Time/Length : am/.25
Rating : *****
Performance : ***
Board : soprano
Notes : i am gonna have to go with a five. it was full on irma arrival. got down to grand around 730 and it was clear blue sky – windless – glass. head high barrels coming through. i just watched for an hour until gina and ellen showed up. we watched from the beach some folk gettin barrelled like it was pipeline. i decided i would make an effort and try to paddle out for one wave. it was not a long board wave. i managed to get one nice right and then got out, we all then walked down the beach and watched for another 45 minutes. i decided to paddle out again and snared one more. gina and ellen got it on the iphone- put thee oh sees on the soundtrack because that’s who we went to see that night at warsaw. all in all a five because it was watching some of the best surf i had seen in a while – like an overhead day at steamers…
Stats/Video : https://vimeo.com/233134809