Location : O
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : soprano
Notes : sun we (me gina ellen) decided to go after the high tide – so it was a later in the am call. it was still going off but not with overhead sets. we all decided to paddle out at grand. clean glass – blue sky – a little offshore wind. it was still curling barrels with critical takeoffs but plenty of shoulders to be had. I NABBED TO great rides that give tmake it a solid 4 – not that long -but had power and girth. On the beach a catholic mass was being said by father mcsurphy. gina made friends with the ambassador to japan and christian don tried to get me back into the fold (i think he was the deacon of long beach longboarders for christ) later that night me , mom mikel gina ellen went into manhattan for a mad dinner at THE NOMAD- a killer wine made by Tyler from santa barbara – INSAAAAAANE DAY!!!!
Stats/Video :
Month: September 2017
O
Location : O
Time/Length : am/.25
Rating : *****
Performance : ***
Board : soprano
Notes : i am gonna have to go with a five. it was full on irma arrival. got down to grand around 730 and it was clear blue sky – windless – glass. head high barrels coming through. i just watched for an hour until gina and ellen showed up. we watched from the beach some folk gettin barrelled like it was pipeline. i decided i would make an effort and try to paddle out for one wave. it was not a long board wave. i managed to get one nice right and then got out, we all then walked down the beach and watched for another 45 minutes. i decided to paddle out again and snared one more. gina and ellen got it on the iphone- put thee oh sees on the soundtrack because that’s who we went to see that night at warsaw. all in all a five because it was watching some of the best surf i had seen in a while – like an overhead day at steamers…
Stats/Video : https://vimeo.com/233134809
O
Location : O
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : soprano
Notes : more wishy washy onshore mush wishy at lincoln – but considerably bigger – got one really fast wedge.
Stats/Video : irma approaches
O
NS
NS
O
Location : O
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : heyman RI 92 board
Notes : well we (gina ellen) trekked out to point judit where the wind was offshore. setup was a little like 38th to 2nd peak pleasure point. we surfed the inside then paddled out the lighthouse where it was bigger – but hella rocky- got a few warmly rides that were fun then paddled back inside. getting out was basically the equivalent of ROCK CLIMBING. My feet were shredded – climbing over boulders trying to get up the hill. it was a little like everest- you would pass some surfers that had slipped and fallen- but it was too difficult to retrieve the bodies – so they just left the on the rocks to rot. thing is the bodies rotted before the surfboards – so you would pass these skeletons clutching these surfboards that still looked like they were ridable. i finally got to the top of the hill and we went to brunch…
Stats/Video :