Month: April 2018

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : — *
Board : 94 al
Notes : forgot how to surf. should have waited. could barely stand up. water so cold after PG
Stats/Video :

PG

Location : PG
Time/Length : AM PM 5 HOURS
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : W
Notes : SAT AM another right big load of close out ocean beach bollocks I tell you. Pounded right well by waves that were not going anywhere. Mind you- on the north end were some brilliant waves if’n you were on a short board. But long board mellowness – ? RUBBISH. PM Holy Shit! The redemption session! And the last session of the whole vacay. Just like Marcellus said – high tide and the giant closeout sets were now breaking outside. It was choppy and big but manageable – the waves had SHOULDERS!! It was even onshore wind but still good. I lost count of the substantive waves I got. Nice long rides where I could get comfortable with what was happening and get acquainted with the wave. Plus – barely anyone in the water. Last sesh and best sesh.
Stats/Video : https://vimeo.com/264801518

PG

Location : PG
Time/Length : AM PM 5 HOURS
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : W
Notes : FRI 4/13 AM closeouty again. hunt and peck for a sharp corner – very challenging on a long board. Not much to be had. Enrich was trying to film me but it was one wave per hour and that wave was bloody bollocks PM closeouty again- maybe 1 or 2 halfway decent rides .
Stats/Video :

PG

Location : PG
Time/Length : am/pm /4.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : W
Notes : THU 4/12 AM bright sunshine at 7 am- Marcellus was out- it was the best conditions so far – my first 45 minutes were quite good but then it started to closeout again, by far the best sesh with the longboard so far as far as conditions and wave count. Best wave still has to be from Saturday on the nsp garbage pail lid. PM close out garbage. That night tina and I went to la luna – storybook Disney
Stats/Video :

PG

Location : PG
Time/Length : AM PM 5 HOURS
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : W
Notes : WED 4/11 AM At noon met Marcellus from agua tibia surf for a lesson. Costa rican pro longboarder – young – great teacher- learned a lot especially about my pop up and breathing- reading waves. Big mistake is that I paddle well and keep my head straignt when I am digging for the wave my head is going left and right – need to keep it straight. We paddled a lot PM not quite as close outy but far from ideal – 1 hour = 1 wave that was decent
Stats/Video :