Location : PG
Time/Length : am/pm /2.5
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : BB
Notes : AM: set up w/eric of aqua tibia to film me. We met at 7 am on the south end. Still it was sizable – and mostly closeouts. I surfed catastrophically and have the video to prove it. The only rides of significance were literally my very first and very last – corner shots that I surfed like a wobbly drunk. One wipeout was code red – ripped my go pro off my wrist-more dumb plastic out in the ocean – my bad. After I took ole BB back to the surf shop from whence I got him I headed over to aqua tibia again – the store I should have gone to on day one. Marcellus set me up with a pristine 90 walden – no pock marks – I installed my pivot fin that I had brought with me from sf. Set up with a lesson w/Marcellus at noon on Wednesday. PM big and closeout on the south end of the beach- not havin it.
Stats/Video :
Month: April 2018
PG
Location : PG
Time/Length : am/pm /4.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : BB
Notes : AM: 7 am started off with my 94 mactavish-patched and pockmarked- nicknaming BB for “Bukowski Board” because it looks like the face of Charles bukowski, I started out straight out but I couldn’t really click in. there were a lot of NYC single cell SUPER JABRONIES in the water. I managed about one decent pumping right – but was surfing very poorly. I got out and headed down the beach to where the swell was less. I got to the point where it seemed like a lot of surf schools were happening. Swell was definitely more friendly. I still couldn’t quite click in but finally I swung into a right- lined up perfect and man was that wave OPEN FOR BUSINESS. Swear I almost hand all ten over – heard some whoopin from folks as I glided by. Got out. Cut my losses. 2 45 minutes. 1 nice wave. 1 really nice redemption wave. Got back to cabin- cutting fruit- drinking black as sin coffee- tina spotted a lizard five feet big outside our cabin – we thought it was a monkey at first-reckon that shit could whisk away a 3 year old into its lair… I took the NSP garbage pail lid back to ola alai. PM Went down to the south end of the beach where it was less swell. Still it was fairly significant – and 80% tomahawk closeout. Ride as the red balloon sun was setting I managed a nice right on ole’ BB
Stats/Video :
PG
Location : PG
Time/Length : Am and pm
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : Complicated
Notes : Well we got here. Waves are bigger than I imagined – water is really salty. The first day i rented a 90 epoxy NSP- with little rinky dink fins. Big mistake. It was like trying to surf the lid of a garbage pail. I corralled it and got some nice rides. Today i rented a 9′ 4 Mctavish that was so beat up and pockmarked it looked like Charles Bukowski’s face after a 3 day bender. However, it had some weight and felt better under the feet. This is Tina at sunset…
Stats/Video :