Month: October 2018

C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/3.0
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 94 al
Notes : Was gonna go to 38th because it was high tide and not that much of a swell- but decide3d on Cap. mainly because of crowd. 4 people out at Cap – had to sit way inside to the right of the jetty to get something. got a nice one breaking outside as soon as I got in- then a frustrating lull for almost an hour. finally high tide past and it started to get nice on the inside. just me and a paddle boarder – wasn’t epic but nice enough- one other surfer then came out – a good long boarder
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : overcast and clean. the creak peek was working. i was surfing really well. first hour was great then the SWARMS arrived. i had a left that i swear i was inches from having all ten over – for a considerable amount of time- i was able also to recover and not go ass over end…
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94 al
Notes : only marginally better at the creek. the promised big swell did not arrive at the southern end of linda mar. probably mackin at OB.got some junked up wobbly johnny thunders waves and got out…
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94 al
Notes : it was supposed to be 8-12 foot and 700 jools. everybody was in the parking lot and everbody was disappointed. just nothing coming through. it was clean and breaking at the point- mounds would come through but just not break. everybody was sitting way inside almost on the shore hoping for a sliver. got in at the creek and i got out after 45 minutes
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 94 al
Notes : clean crisp and windless. however still meekest and mushy. again the action was north of the a lot pump house. managed to get quite a few corners that were extra nice because it was so glassy
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94 al
Notes :  again clear sky slight offshore glassy – but very meek and folding over fast. when a shoulder came by however it was nice because the ocean was so glassy. yesterday and today all the action was north of the A lot pumphouse- everything south of there was dead flat…
Stats/Video :

C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/3.0
Rating : *****
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : Going with the five. The whole coast was abuzz. Every spot from from Linda mar down to san diego was firing. Left in darkness and found first light right around waddell creek on the border of santa cruz county. feathering head high glass. I knew the point would be a no no too crowded and too big. considered privates but opted to go straight to capitola. it was a litttle crowded for capitola with people sitting way on the inside and way outside. feathring outside glass perfection. i paddled out  fromn the main becach cause its quicker to get to the outside lineup from that vantage point. Also you can easily avoid any oncoming sets. i got a great wave every 10 to 15 minutes. a good ratio. there were some sizable ones. great and challenging to ride. the board can REALLY perch on these types of waves. Sometimes I am surfing it abd it feels like i am not IN the wave but STANDING ON A LEDGE looking down at the wave from above. it’s weird and don’t know how it happens but it does on certain waves. I am about the nose of the board (or near the nose) and the board just HOLDS in the crest very stable. anyway last wave caught by the cam is attached…
Stats/Video : https://vimeo.com/295089123

 

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : I wasn’t even gonna go in. glassy and windless but weak rubbish. but i went in just north of the pumphouse and got some scrambled up sort of rides. mainly because I surfed really well given the conditions…
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length :  am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 94 al
Notes :  small weakish rubbish in front of the creek. things really died down but still crowded w/good surfers so it was a savage desperate hunt and peck. some folk got some things because something well groomed would come by every now and then keeping everyone in the water waiting hoping and hunting. not me – i just got scraps…
Stats/Video :