Month: August 2019

Location : NY
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Met Gina at Monroe . Everyone was on a meager peak at Lincoln but we noticed there was a little peak at Monroe and an hour before the lifeguards would show up and kick folk out of the swimming beach. We opted for that. Good bet. after a hald hour adjustment we both seemed to be able to connect with the small shorebreak. My last 45 minutes I surfed very well on the board – need to get one of those al 95 pintails. That night me mom mike gina off to grammercy tavern for a great birthday meal…
Stats/Video :

Location : NY
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **+
Performance : -*
Board : 95
Notes : This was supposed to be the day for waves. Indeed there were waves at Lincoln but I just could not connect. Could not make waves and made bad selections. Hella crowded also. in the end I more or less gave up. pitiful performance.
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Location : RI
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 josh farber
Notes : Met Gina and Ellen outside the ocean mist in matunuck. There was swell. it was the long paddle out – to the deep hole. Hit various peaks – trying to angle for the outside bomb. I got a few. Had one steep drop where I maneuvered between a a father and son – a risky move. Got to hear a  rhode islander scream at some paddling for a wave “GO HAAAD”. A paddleboarder almost ran me over and i had to dive off the board- which he ran over dinging the rail. Long session with lots of paddling. We joked by the side of the road as we loaded the boards onto the car – -Gina and Ellen chatting with the locals – the road was buzzing because there was swell – and it was sunny – and it was summer. Drove back down that afternoon to NY with Mom through not a little traffic…

EDIT: the board was 96 not 94 and the Spot we surfed on Friday in Rhode Island is called “Mary’s Bar.”  or just “in front of Ocean Mist.”  (Deep Hole is actually to the left of the parking lot where I’ve never paddled out.) Well,  At least I got the RI part right…
Stats/Video :

Location : RI
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 Josh Farber
Notes : Met Gina and Ellen at Matunuck parking lot and it was kind of blown out. Because of wind Gina suggested  Narragansett Beach break. I Never surfed this spot – so off we went in one car with three boards on the roof. Turned out to be a good call.
The wind was not nearly as heavy. Sunny and blue skies. A wide HMB like beach break. There was some action – with the occasional outside bomb. After I got my bearings on the spot I started to sit outside and managed to pick off some outsiders that stayed open. The board was a beater- a 94 heavy josh farber. I felt more on my game after the initial first floundering and had my best session. Was it because the waves were good or I was surfing good? No idea- and probably a little of both. At 9 the lifeguards arrived and beckoned us to surf away from the green flags which were a no surf zone. I got whistled a number of times because the peak was right at the green flag. I ended my sesh early after a nice right. We piled back into the car and went back to the Matunuck parking lot where I had left the Lexus. Then out to the Barn for a two hour session of Maeve riding lucky the horse and doing jumps. Then off shopping  and started cooking for the annual Maeve and pats for Petes sake its not our birthday birthday party- wagyu and ottominelli  burgers with hand cut fries- Maeve her friend Cat and Ella – mom mark maryellen mike and gina – for the record…

EDIT: Actually found out from G the the board was not a josh Farber who is not a famous surfer at all. it was given to the H compound by a guy named josh who had it made by a guy in San Diego…
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Location : NY
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : NY
Notes :95
Stats/Video :Off to Rockaway. Overcast with strong storm clouds. Then at the beach it began to rain. 4 or so people out by the jetty. Waves were sloshy and sloppy -with some outsiders.  Then the lightning started. Bolts far away at first but then coming progressively closer. I got spooked but no one else seemed to mind. I surfed terrible in the slop. Another lightning bolt – much closer- bright blue – thick and tangled. That was it for me. Three of the others also got out. I almost ran from the exposed beach to the boardwalk – on the way passing Patti Smith who had built this huge sandcastle with four massive towers labelled JIM – JIMI – JANIS – KURT- she was sitting crosslegged in the rain playing bongo’s and singing people have the power in  Tagalog. Stopped at Rockaway Beach cafe and then drove with Mom up to RI that afternoon

Location : NY
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : headed down too Rockaway. it was clean and windless. still not much of a wave – except for a little peak that broke right at the jetty. 4 guys on it so I joined the pack. some things came through actually and I managed to snag a few – take off was practically on the rocks. that afternoon went for lunch with mom to le bernardin – hi-klass from the mid 80’s-all fish – great meal- I had the black snapper and mom the Hake
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Location : NY
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Met Gina at Monroe Long Beach- got in at 845 right before they  start chafing. Not really much going on- some mushy here and there’s- at least we managed to eek out some rides. No sign of Flipper – where could he be??
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Location : NY Rockaway
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : met Michael and gina and Rockaway. never really surfed there. probably went to that beach last in 1973. it was quite the hipster zoo. rebuilt post sandy boardwalk. African American surf camp. 3 dedicated surf beaches. Patti smith doing push ups on the waters edge singing “surfers got the power” it was hella crowded. we paddled over to the next beach over and found d some breaking very close to shore little lines. I surfed really well so loved the session. afterwards we went to the artisan Rockaway beach bakery and shopping at edge mere farms farmers market. got great salad and string beans and made a steak salad that night at Holder with blanched green beans. quite the day…
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Location : NY
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : back to the scene of the crime with Gina at Lincoln. still not much push and power- have to squeeze out rides. we the all met (me mice gina at  Astoria regal to see mid sömmer- very creepy KREEPY with enuf sub text to satisfy any purview – still processing. that night went to see bush tetras with Michael at mercury lounge- why did bikini kill ever get any ink when bush Teras were really first and tons better musically. 3 original members – inspiring.
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Location : NY
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Met Gina at Lincoln. kind of mush again but we managed to get some here and there’s-got crowded- very thin spinach like seaweed everywhere…
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