Month: October 2019

LMN

Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : clear and windless. flat – except up north where it was glassy and had some size on the sets- bit into a few nice corner lefts fast and racy but slept poorly and was feeling not the best
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : clean clear and windless. not AS crowded at the creek /peak. surfed well – smooth. four NEW creek rats in the water – I had sent them out last week AM – T- M and his daughter E. they all liked the letter. That afternoon went w/lammy to see meat puppets at HSB – last time was new paultz in 1984. they were good – bit of a voice ravagement from the years but what the hey. A full SF summer day…
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Clean windless and clean. Insane crowd at Creek Peak including a lot of players. hella hard battling for a corner and then having a clear flight path. I managed a few rights that were very nice. But lots of drop ins – more than I can ever remember in recent months. Felt like every time I was racing down a line I Was shouting “WATCH OUT WATCH OUT” at the top of my lungs.
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ****+
Board : 94
Notes : Clear windless and clean. however at the creek it was LUMPY DUMPY AND GRUMPY. waves – yes – but folding over haphazardly – sectioning out – no clear peak – but as soon as I got out I  happened into two waves- both were rights – clean wedges – rights beauties- from then on it was hunt and peck- about an hour later I hooked into a right that I have no idea how I maintained it into a sweet ride. it was a big wedge and I was TOO deep – but went for it anyway- I  immediately thought BIG MISTAKE – gonna hit some soft top jockey on the inside. but somehow I managed a SEVERE right  and up to the nose INSIDE the CURL of the wave. basically blasted through the whitewater to OPEN FACE and a sweet ride. I still have no idea how I managed the maneuver …
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Clean and clear and glassy. It looked like nothing from the lot but a pod was by the Creek/Piandas. Sure enough something would come through. Surfed really well – lost count of waves – flawless take offs spins and surfing backwards – great sesh
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