Month: November 2019

C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/.25
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 94
Notes : We checked in to Fern River cabin 11b at 3:10 – unleaded and I jammed it down to C. Stuck in traffic. By the time I made it to
C it was 4:15 with a sunset at 453. Still people in the water. Paddled into the setting sun – it was hella thick with giant tangles of sea weed. There were waves – clean – but not quite enough punch to blast thru the kelp. People were scattered and it felt kinda creepy with the sun going down. I grabbed a wave that was so more like an obstacle course – jumping and bumping and tripping over thick sea weed tangles and stumbling into another little section. I decided to get out. Shortest session ever?
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 94
Notes : overcast SUPER HIGH TIDE – lumpy dumpy and grumpy- fell down a few faces and garnered some short lumpy warmly rides- surfed poorly
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C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Linda was an onshore mess. T was getting out and said don’t go in. Down to C where it was super high tide. Came back in an hour and a half and it was MAGIC. BREAKING WAY WAY OUTSIDE – folding over and whitewash coming at ya – then set up and trim dow2n the line – surfed great – lots of critical turns
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes :It was massive on the North end. On the South end a complete zoo from the Taco Bell to the Dox. Everyone was crammed into that zone. Dox was about as crowded as I have ever seen it. Wasn’t even sure how I was gonna paddle out. But there were long flat lulls. The point was breaking massive as well. I decided I would be very cautious and just wait and wait – on the outside. I timed the  paddle out to the lull and got outside with dry hair. I waited and waited. 30 minutes and then the set came. A woman who had just gotten out grabbed the first one – I aborted just in time. Then a few minutes later a nice size wedge came through -I was SHARPLY angled to the left ALMOST a sideways take off but it was perfect- Screaming down the face I heard MS scream PAAAT. The next wave was an even longer wait  40 minutes sitting way outside – bobbin around like a chump. Was it done ? Maybe I should join the rest of the scrum on the inside. But I stuck it out. finally it arrived ed. I started paddling diagonal for it VERY EARLY. Coming at me was the entire inside scrum – paddling fast to try and scratch over it. I heaved into it ( at least 2 people were screaming my name – it was funny) and rocketed down the face- it felt like one of the biggest waves I had ever gotten at the dox. When the whitewater crashed around me finally I decided to belly board in – seemed like too much white water to be able to control. 1:15 = 2 waves. Got out. Delivered the Los Olos to CP = new hands on the first board in the quiver…
Stats/Video :

LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **+
Board : 94
Notes : glassy looks better than it surfed conditions. close out ratio was 75% to 25% makable-kind of high. still managed to snag some corners. north end was hella big. clean windless and clear…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Holy shit classic boat  dox day. Not that crowded – me R  and I and J -some others. Waited outside – and they came – clean crisp glassy – with a little heft. Not Lully really- take one – paddle back out – take another- no wind – blue skies… That night went with KS to see marc c’s red room orchestra score a Alex knot directed art film at the Balboa theater, really great – had no idea how much talent in that band -AB – TA – n cave/iggy drummer LM . lots of Linda Mar folk in attendance…
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