Month: November 2019

Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : 94
Notes : Third day at Cap – and this is just about the beauty of the CAP reform. Typically you have a scrum of folk on the inside. But then the stragglers – like me- often sit way way outside waiting and waiting – sometimes its 15 minutes or 20 or 30 or even 40 minutes. But then it arrives. You kn ow it because it casts a shadow. No matter how far outside you sit you are never right at the peak. it always breaks farther out then where you are. The the wall of whitewater comes at you. its an easy pick off. grab it just right and you have plenty of time to set up for the reform – which is glassy big open wall – usually ends all the way on the inside with a racy little zipper that is a ride unto itself. got 4 of them
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Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : It was way inside again be4cause of the tide. But I managed to score a number of this right inside ippers. surfed well and got to the end of the board almost immediately
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Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 94
Notes : Tide was so HIGH even though it was just past dead low when I got there. only the inside corner was really working with a very occasional hard to time outside wave (one per set) After a half hour everyone GOT OUT. I was alone- which I hate.But then some inside waves started to come and it was good. I decided to stay another half hour – plus people were watching from the promenade so if I hit my head at least they would see. At one point I took a wave – an inside WARBLER- but it felt like there was so much water with the tide that I could hang ten- I got very far up – on. the crest – it was as if the high tide and all the water allowed me – with my weight-0 to stand all the way on the nose- was it the wave or was it skill set?
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Location :LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 94
Notes : it looked like it should have been good at the creek – with little makable corners – but it was solid people plus I just couldn’t connect. crowd VIBE was unbearable – a lot of 30 something tech kids talking about digital biz- mountain biking – snow boarding – surfing – doing it all. you kids GET OFF MY LAWN!!!!
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : all foggy at boat dox but got a few okay ones despite the crowds. Then moved to the Right at the creek – WRONG- everything went downhill fast – got out
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 94
Notes : What a boondoggle. Supposed to be a 5 star epic day but at 730 the tide was too swamped out at the dox (at least it looked like to me) thought the swell was big enough that it would be working at Capitola even on the high tide. NO. Waves were bouncing of the retainer wall with force and fury. nothing breaking outside. Privates had a nice big outside wide breaking wave coming in on the high tide(first time I ever saw privates working on a high tide) but no one was surfing it and I wasn’t gonna do it alone. Went back to Linda mar . (every spot was mackinaw double overhead short board /big gun heaven) at Linda mar tide WAS still too high. managed a few here and there warblers but that was it…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Upon arrival on the South end I watch he’d nothing but close out. Up North there seemed to be folk but it was too big. Decided I would come back at 12:30 and low tide. Stuck in traffic on top of the hill I watched SUP M and A take off on a perfect A frame. I did a U turn at Rockaway suited up in the A lot and headed up North. It was big and steep – and a bit of a crowded pod- everyone scrambling to take off on the set waves that came in sharp – more suited to a shorter board. I stayed outside and waited – managed to snag about three or four steep fast lefts. I then paddled a ;little further up North because a smaller pod was taking a right. It was a long wait but I finally grabbed a big wide breaking right – it had a thick sloping open face that was unique – stayed open for a nice bit ….
Stats/Video :

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes :  certainly looked nice3 and glassy despite the fog. however it was just to swamped out- kind of got some here and there’s at Taco Bell – then went up North by the A lot where there was a big crackling right better suited for a shorter board. surfed like a mediocre dog…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Foggy and overcast with swelling tide. After a lot of to and fro finally settled into a spot – it was a solid 35 minutes or so of very nice zippy lefts in front of the A lot pump house. Then they went away – went further north cause there seemed to be a Right- caught one then got out…
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Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : Clear and windless but swamped out at low tide. It looked REALLY good but reality was it looked better than it surfed. As I was getting bin a HUGE wood beam nearly struck me down. I dragged it out of the water. Had nails in it. Could have killed a small kid. Dragged it as far up the beach by the B lot as I could- it was hella heavy- 12 feet long. Post session I asked a guy to help me drag it further away from the tide. We dumped it right under the Taco Bell – and there its sits – stable -on rocks – almost like a viewing bench…
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