Month: November 2019

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Overcast with the A lot peak working – but I couldn’t connect that well. Finally moved a little south because the right started working and got a few. then it started to lull out and I moved back – but found nothing – so I paddled back to the right. Suddenly the sky opened up and the water glassed off and sets started coming thru. Had a great sash thenceforth – with E. We bot got out together and when we got to the showers ran into a woman who had gashed her head on her fin. bleeding. E a nurse. I got my first aid kit. it was a divot. Gave her water and my mirror so she could see the cut. E changed up and the drove her to the emergency room…
Stats/Video :

Location : SCH
Time/Length : AM/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : Flat up and down the coast. Hit the hook but had to wait until dead low for anything ridable which was noon. unfortunately there were also 3 or 4 super jabroni long board thugs also in the water. loud mouthed MALES that would not shut the fuck up about all the shit they did and people they knew – loud enough so everyone in the line up knew -‘hey we’re locals” a couple of them were really good -my last wave was a chest high golden nugget that was worth the drive down alone. when I got back to the hook lot the thugs were in the parking lot skating and talking olden times – all 50 +…I guess inner city thugs play hoops?? suburb thugs skate? coastal thugs surf? – which seems kinda of un thuggish sport wise in a certain sense…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **+
Board : 94
Notes : From the A lot I saw in front of the pump house a set roll in the was picture perfect Surfer mag. Hitting outride it was head high – rolling over then SLOWLY rolling in – breaking both left and right until it came inside and the sort went into a reform fast barrel section. 3 waves in the set. all the same. no one sitting outside to grab them. suited up right qwik and got outside in a hurry. But there I sat . NOTHING.  I sat waiting for another set for 45 minutes. Finally I went inside where everyone else was sitting – got some nice little zippy right handers that worked if you popped up IMMEDIATELY…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ****+
Board : 94
Notes : Cloudy foggy cold. more or less windless.  a nice little right  in front of the a lot pump house – other peaks up north. I could do no wrong – ny first right was glassy magic – outsider – nailed it right at the peak – and was on the nose the entire wave – graceful dismount- my hair did not get wet until my fourth wave – great cutbacks – good wave selection
Stats/Video :

Location : SCH
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : Dead flat up and down the coast. Hit the Hook as tide was going low so there was indeed a little bitty right – well groomed – me and two other long boarders. Also saw G and K C walking along the east side promenade…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : It was supposed to be dead flat so I went to OB first. People were out but it Mar. Lo and behold – thru the gray and fog there were waves – and pretty good ones at the A lot. But NO ONE was in the water – just two kooks down South. Finally two kids with wavestorms showed up and went in right at the A lot so I felt more comfortable going in. It was great – very crumbly kind of chopped up shibble-shabble -but nice puzzle piece re-form rides. In NY would have been a good condition day
Stats/Video :

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : 94
Notes : Overcast and foggy. Lot was almost empty. 2 kooks up north. 1 kook in front of the A lot pump house. 3 people total end to end at the Mar. But the waves were GREAT. Glassy little roller coming in left and right at the A lot. I hot three great rides within the first 15 minutes. Then three more people came in- great sash – every wave I wanted to have I could take… it lulled in the second hour but was still great…
Stats/Video :

Location : SCH
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94

Notes : Flat up and down the coast. Spiral down to SC because with a low tide I knew there would be something grabable at the Hook. I was correct – small but well groomed little knee slappers over by the second bowl – sometimes a chest high – managed some nice switch stances
Stats/Video :

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.2
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : There were small waves I just couldn’t connect with them – kept blowing easy waves. Managed a few but not what I should have had…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : clear and clean and windless and lake like again – smaller then Thursday and a longer wait for the right to come through. it felt like a half hour of basically nothing – then a half hour of golden glassy knee to waist high magic perfectly groomed – then another half hour lull. changing out at the car it seemed to be a half hour ON- beautiful glass – people going to town…
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