Month: January 2020

SCP

Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/2.15
Rating : ****
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Waves were real good at the hook and privates. Kept getting better throughout the session – and more crowded. I was surfing wishy washy. I nailed two great rides – 1 at the hook and 1 at privates. Should have gotten much more but I was a cowardly lion in the lineup. Magic Dove somehow dinged at the bottom deck nose…
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SCP

Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : Straight to the hook – tide was going low – swell had died so no hemming g and hawing. The second bowl was perfect – well groomed little wave – but with a little push. There was a lot of people surprisingly – given the small size- maybe it was the occasional shoulder high that brought out the better surfers. had a hard time finding my groove. however I managed to score a set wave that had a lot of juice and surfed it really well – a long ride – up and down the face. Soon thereafter who shows up? The Dunder!!! Had been so long since I was in the water with him. I decided rather quickly to head down to Sharks. A good move- Christian of EVOL surfboards was on it with another really good longboarder. That’s it basically. Had a rough time finding my groove/ pocket. But scored a nice set wave finally. I would hazard to guess that I stayed near the nose for the longest time EVER on a wave. It felt very comfortable being that forward for THAT long on a wave – almost the entire ride was on the front end- two sections were right in the pocket/curl- I never felt like I was “teetering” – just calm – relaxed – no “effort”- Was it the board OR was it the wave???
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SCP

Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : After much hemming and hawing I settled on Privates which was the best choice. Hook and Sharks were crowded and Capitola was really small, soft and Lully. Privates had some sets rolling through and I got a few of them – really utilized the board on two waves – made sections that opened up a huge second ride. DEEP CUTBACKS. I also  was able to stay near the nose IN THE POC KET  or in the curl. Clean clear windless.
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C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Started out promising with two great outside waves within the first 15 minutes. However, went downhill for like the next HOUR!! Just couldn’t get my mojo working. Then it picked up again for the last 45 minutes. It was very soft – I slipped a number of times trying to make turns on these soft waves – is this what is known as soft rails – its like they couldn’t grip the wave or dig into the wave. Lots of Santa Cruz AREA weekend male long boarders in the lineup- they can surf but … with no grace – no creativity- no individuality – lümpen. Plus they all look like Mike Pompeo.
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : another middling day at the dox- more chop in the water – maybe a little more size- a lot of good longboarders in the line up so a lot of jockey-ing for a clean shoulder – lots of drop ins and some words by normally mild mannered folk…
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Location : LBD
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Perfectly acceptable boat dox sesh- super crowded – Lully for the outside sets but some here and there’s…
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B

Location : B
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : With Tina down to Bo- All coast was still Mega. The patch was holding up – very Lully – large outside sets breaking way far out. Managed a head hight outside breaker that I stayed on forever – it was way outside and kept re forming – hence the 3 star – just basically for that wave…
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