Month: February 2020

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/.30
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : again with the high high tide. really much bigger and crazy current. it was massively jumbled up. Onshore wind. When I got out I felt – I need to go back in. but I was very careful – I found a big right wedge that was safe to launch off of and it held up. I was done with the one. I practically wound up on the front porch of the first boat dox house the tide was so high…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board :95
Notes : Too much water – hella hide tide again even two hours past high tide. Still skittish from the Thursday experience – feels cathartic to tell other people – everyone has there own panic stories and advice. From P was a good one – “float on your back” – should have maybe done that. anyway it was all hit or miss warblers…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : It was very jumbled up. The creek seemed to have the most makable rights. SUP M said to me “Go North by the pump house -a great right.” . I declined because it just seemed too big on the clean up sets. 45 minutes into the session I was sitting outside and took off on a right. It was closing out so I kicked out but the board went over the Falls. Then I felt the tug as the calf leash slipped off my calf and the board took off for shore. I wasn’t that far out. However, I wasn’t that far in. I started swimming for shore when a medium size wave took me under. When I surfaced I felt the current start to take me out. I started to battle the current. Then another wave hit me and I went under. When I surface I started to PANIC big time. I am not gonna make it. I could see my board but it was too far away. I started to doggy paddle and really just panicked more and more. I looked around for HELP and was just about to wave my arms. Then I just remembered what people say : STAY CALM. I kind of  floated for a minute then started to doggy paddle back again towards shore. Finally , after an eternity I came to shallow enough water where I could stand. SO SCARY. To boot it looked like a nothing chest to head high day. I told T Fireman- then I told E- then I told T. Then I told C.  I went into Norcal to get a new leash and told P. It felt cathartic to talk to so many people on shore about what had happened. Each person had there own story that was similar. One thing I told E was – going forward if I see someone swimming to shore I am just going to paddle over and ask if they are okay. If someone had paddled over to me and asked if I was okay I think I would have said “NO – let me hold on to your board – I need help.” Just goes to show how quickly things can go south…
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SCH

Location : SCH
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Even with the window up and NPR blasting I could here the bluster of the Dunder on the Hook overlook as I turned into the parking lot. Fortunately, it was too micro for him. Tide going very low – a little dangerously so – ding wise. But some nice little well groomed knee slappers coming through and just a bunch of beginners – so very cool
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C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Very small and soft – but just enough to keep me at Cap and not go up the hill to bigger game at the Hook. Very strong offshore- some outside here and there’s
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C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Clean – breaking outside- waist to shoulder high. Surfed great – last wave was a very long and wide open face- could arc the board. Thereafter, the wind almost instantly kicked up to heavy ONSHORE- I got one last wave – then it was over
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : Rubbish surf as well as to crowded. Every half way decent ride I had to abort because some Jabrone was in the flight path. Thereafter SUPER ART day. First went with Mo to live webcasting of Falcon/Falkland at light rail studios at 2pm. Fantastic show and performance – very very funny. KS could be a great comedy actor – excellent timing and control in that dept. Then we went to see Stefan Kurtens paintings opening at the Hosfelt Gallery. Stefan of Düsseldorf/Superbilk days. Great to see him and his work was awesome. Thereafter we got caught in the Mission LOWRIDER pre Super Bowl party on Mission street. Lammy finally picked us up and we hit the sold out Fillmore for Diane Coffee (cloying and trying to hard – disappointing) and the new pronographers who were great…
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