C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Holy shit. the double 4’s. Linda was absolutely insurable with 20 mph onshore. Down in the village of the damned aka the Walt Disney hells cape cartoon village of bone headed tourists who wouldn’t know a face mask if it slapped them in the head aka CRAPITOLA – it was perfection more or less. glass head high outsiders. it was a wait for the big sets – but oh when they came! wait and wait – usually just 15 minutes- then you see the shadows build as the mounds approach. those inside scramble to make it outside. I nabbed more than quite a few – perfect position – perfect selection- sets seemed to come with a package of 5 waves. wave 3 seemed to be the choice cut. I give myself a 4 mostly because of wave selection- I was well read vis a vis knowing which set wave to take…I got out at 11 am. that’s when the cap police showed up and announced over the squad loudspeaker that only people accessing the beach jogging or going into the water to exercise were allowed- no hangouts allowed – so all beach blanket bingo bozos – off the beach – that was cool I thought…
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