Month: September 2020

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Not quite as congested today. mar sky was clear- the water relatively clean. south end the peak was the creek. bigger than yesterday and managed to get in a few nice ones before the crowd fattened up. Two people ran into me / collided into me- I am amazed the board went away unscathed. ysterday I hit my left heal on a rock in rock garden. today its sore as a mother – limping on dry land…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : congested as hell from the wildfire smoke. t’weren’t nothing but close out beach break. then – from the A lot- I spied what looked like a little peak over by the creek. I drove to the B lot. indeed it was a small little roller with not many folk on it. to quote little Britain “THE ONLY PEAK IN THE VILLAGE”. for 45 minutes it was great – then it got crowded and deteriorated into a shambolic kook fest…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Back at the Right in front of the pump house. started out okay with a few rights at the get go. every wave I tried to go switch foot – into goofy. each time it ended in a disaster wipe out- Things tapered off a little and got crowded – Goofy Foot Fall continues…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : A rough and frustrating start – finally settled into the close to shore right in front of the pump house. I got one little waist high wave where I had no idea how I managed to stay on the board. Right in the curl of one peak – then it sort of re formed and I kept inside on the peak as it mutated into another section – then it petered out and I jacked into the white water and skidded across it – then came off the white water – a longboard floater- practically landed on dry sand
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : cloudy and clean – almost glassy. no smoke. the Left was working and the right in front of the pump house. I settled on the right. a slow start – but conditions kept getting better. . the right was pretty vacant except for some shortboarders – (including the one Ph who is really great) He could take off late and race down the line with super speed – gave him deference and a wide berth. I locked into some rights that were very nice3 and managed some mid ride with stance into goofy foot- actually managed to surf a good section of the wave goofy. its like dribbling or playing tennis with your left hand – so awkward at first and lacking in strength – but ultimately beneficial. I think my Fall 2020 Covid/Election SlowPocalyspse Surf goal is to surf decent as a Goofy-Footer…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.55
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : clean , small and not that smoky. flat down by boat dox . there was a left and a right by the A lot pump house. I chose the right. a slow start – for almost twenty mi nutes. then it turned on – scrappy little open nuggets- got some nice switch foots in – stoked
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Location : SC38
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : hoofed it down to jacks late because the tide was bad early and I had off from work. got in at noon as tide was lowering – good move- the point looked big – so did the hook- so38/ jacks was just right. Four waves – all were super quality and seemed a lot bigger than they actually probably were and looked – rifled down the line and got some nice cutbacks. lost a contact and had to go back to the car for a new install. all in all the right call….
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.15
Rating : **+
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : honey money! when I pulled up to the A lot it seemed like it was gonna be a repeat of yesterday. hunt and peck for a micro corner amongst the shore dump. however – there was a nice consistent right that developed about 45 minutes into my session. directly in front of the A pump house – close to shore – but with a nice zippy little shoulder. I stopped counting the number of waves I scored. sometimes I rode the right basically onto shore. sometimes a waist hi lump would turn up that was just magic. couldn’t figure out if it was the conditions being better or I was just surfing a lot better. maybe a bit of both. these were the type of waves I really like. small – no consequence little right handed jams. one after the other. also for a Sunday- from 739 to 945 am- barely a crowd. go figure
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : foggy cloudy and smoky. in front of the A lot were little close to shore glassy slivers – the water was crystal clear. you could see the bottom when you would coast down the corner of the ankle biters. a few were kneee biters wand waist biters- it was a real hunt for an open corner that would have enough push to carry you on your plank – I enjoyed it…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Talking about how good the left and right was looking with F – right at the A lot pump house – as we were speaking a fog band descended so quickly it blocked out the shore – completely. I paddled out and could barely see anyone. Ran into G at what I thought was the Right- but no markers because you couldn’t even see the shore – let alone the pump house. T paddled by from up north and said he got disoriented because the fog fell so quick and thick. got some meandering lumpy dumpy’s then paddled south to Taco Bell – which was a bust. then the fog kind of lifted and I noticed a women getting lefts back up by the A lot pump house – so off I went. indeed there was a left – a nice one – and I got two of them that sort of made the whole foggy session nice…
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