Month: September 2020

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : not apocalypse orange but cloudy foggy and smoky. there was a left at the A lot pump house and then a little bit of a bigger right just about 50 yards  north. however that right was less frequent and less crowded. I opted for that and made a mistake. I should have just gone for the consistent left with the crowd. I kind of floundered and picked wrong waves. the set right would come and I would be out of position. I did manage two however – – very clean little mounds – though both were marred when my flight path was disrupted by kook drop ins. I paddled over to the left got one and exited. changing – the left just seemed to get better and cleaner…
Stats/Video :

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Well holy shit – it was LOVE’s ORANGE SKIES here in NorCal. Cloud cover with three layers of smoke ABOVE that cloud cover means – no real sunrise- just a weird dusky orange glow in the sky. the waves were clean and small – mostly closing out. in the water I said to T-“its like surfing and smoking cigarettes at the same time.” T said “no because with cigarettes at least you have a filter” it was like surfing on Mars. At the end of the session I launched into this killer waist high right- the wave just OPENED UP like nobodies business and kept offering up more and more open face – halfway through the ride I said – holy shit this wave is still wide open…
Stats/Video :

C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : day 2 of 2020 Kali heatwave # 2- 115 in Concord -SF up to the rare 95. Left at 545 am and when I got to cap I noticed 1 long boarder taking the right at the jetty- the tiny little well groomed zipper that happens on occasion. today it was really micro – but well groomed. there was already about 8 people over by the second jetty so I decided to go for it. I knew as the tide would rise it would quickly go away so time was of the essence. indeed I had a nice little 45 minute session almost all to myself ability wise- it was real micro and challenging but if you got to the tip off the go you could ride it almost to the second jetty. after the tide rose it went away and I had to join the pack of kooks and beginners and surf school kids and tourist over at the second jetty. no real swell so everyone was scrambling for scraps like junkyard dogs fighting over a dirty half eaten chicken bone…
Stats/Video :

C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : *+
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : All Pacifica Beaches -including all water activities-closed for Labor Day weekend to prevent co-vid spread which I think is a good idea. SC beaches open only to traverse the beach to enter the water. Early down to Cap and the closer you got to the SZU Complex fire the smokier the air got. All sorts of Super Massive Heavy Duty State Fire Trucks parked along the way in lots. Near Waddell Creek all the brush on either side of the highway was charred ashen white. Many trees were down – some half blackened. The fire literally stopped only because there was an ocean. The waves – clean but micro meager- surfing awful but what the hay…
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Overcast and not so smoky. On tap was Classic NYC Garbage Pail Surf. Crumbly soft mush with the occasional nice little puzzle piece knee hi dribbler coming thru with an open corner you could work…
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : mushy little shore break – with z ridable – barely- corner at the creek. that is where everyone was – a real traffic jam
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : shoulda – coulda – woulda session. I shoulda parked in the A lot and stuck to north of the pump house. instead I went to the B lot and the Creek. No real peak at the creek – just here and there meager offerings. I got two soft little lines early on and that’s what kept me hanging on – shoulda followed R up north after the first 15 minutes…
Stats/Video :