Month: November 2020

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Clear with slight surface chop. Knee to waist + offerings at the dox. C in on the action doing his thing. Also a guy that has built his own giant hollow “hull wooden surfboard” old school like from 1918 or so. it was like a surfboard canoe – amazing how he was able to get to his feet on it and stabilize it for a ride. anyway – managed a few nose rides that were fun – besides that it was average day at dox with average performance. like that Lou reed song off of “blue mask” – average guy
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Smaller clean boatdox. Surfed strong the first 45 minutes – confident – good wave selection. Then the waves that were happening sort of died off AND the crowd got a little thicker. I paddled over to the right at the Creek/Pandibar- where E was – and managed to pick off a few rights – then I called it a sesh …
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Holy shit that was great. It was overcast and a little bit choppy at first but then cleared up very fast – and glassed off. very nice waist to head high dox lefts. (heavier shortboard stuff breaking all the way up to crespi) I surfed well – but not consistently – mid session I had this “kook lull” where I fumbled and flailed. then I straightened up and hit my mark. caught a strange sideways take off head high wave. I was about to turn and burn but didn’t quite get completely turned around. As such I sort of launched into the wave almost completely sideways/parallel to the lip. for a split second I thought “this is gonna end in a painful disaster” but I somehow managed  to get to my feet and almost slide – not drop- down the face of the wave. then quickly got to the nose for a long ride with a clean shimmering face. As I got out I noticed old OLB coming down the beach- thank god I was getting out. I pitied those still in the water…
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Notes : strong off shore and misting- nice waves here and there just wasn’t feeling it when the rain started coming down hard…

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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Giant macking boat dox and creek. up north it was heavy. not even sure how I was going to get out. super high tide – water coming up to the rocks at dox. I sort of waited for a lull – hugging the coast at dox then paddled like hell. made a dry hair paddle out. I hung around the dox but it was way too crowded. Plus there was super glare from the sun so you couldn’t see in front of you. you had to take the big set wave because everything smaller would just warble and not break. I decided to give up on dox and paddled over to the right because it seemed like there were less soft top jockeys lallygagging in the impact zone. A pretty big right came my way and I was ideally placed- nice heft – spreed one pumping S turn. I took the whitewash in dangerously close and decided to get out – too dangerous. Dry hair session. first time ever.
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Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : *+
Board : 95
Notes : Left later in the morning to catch the lowering tide at Cap. Just past HMB realized I left my iPhone back at the house. when I got back to the house Tina called my cell – ring was emanating from inside the car. it  had slipped down into the crevice of the front seat. headed back to Cap. It was low tide but crowded and soft and kelp kept advancing. I wound up getting to very soft knee high rights that I milked and milked. Cur my shin on my own fin. it was night fall by the time I got back to the Mission. Almost six hours of driving for two mediocre waves – plus a fin shin cut. A boondoggle day surf wise. Beautiful sunset however on devils slide with 15 foot masters crashing on Montara beach…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : overcast with some surface chop. big ole hi tide – outside wedges were pretty big. an army of soft top kooks in the impact zone. it was dangerous. especially because you had speed coming off the top of the wedge and down the face- staring down kooks floating on there belly terrified. it thinned out a bit and then boat dox turned on and got packed in what seemed like a New York second. I got one really nice big fast right. mostly I was more concerned about not hitting – or getting hit by someone.
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Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Overcast and offshore. All the action was up North at Crespi. It was basically one shifty peak with 34 people paddling to and fro hoping to be in the right place when the wave came. Wave itself was Lord Lumpy McDumpy – a fat faced shore break  that offered up a nice ride that you had to dismount quickly lest you end up dumped on shore. I found more than a few. There Wass a slight tinge of toxic masculinity in the lineup which was not fun…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Clear and crisp morning. On the north end there were giant perfect glassy faces – shoulder to head high. short board heaven – carve heaven – I watched some of them for a while. the makable waves were about 25%. 75% were brutal close outs. I wasn’t going near it. Down in the south land there was an open shoulder at the Creek / Pandas. Right off the front I got into two n ice clean glassy rights – dry hair dismount. It got crowded and I went through a fallow period but had one final wave of redemption – that broke out into a very nice weird reform…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : overcast and lumpy dumpy shortbreak. right at “Middles” – the spot between Taco Bell and the A lot pump house – there was an open corner coming through. “I” was out as well as A making the most of it. When I got out to it I really had a bit of a problem finding the open corner. then conditions changed and the Right in front of the A lot jacked up and offered a more substantial corner. I paddled over and wound up getting a glorious Right. – on the dee of the board -perched  for what seemed like a good period. I called the sesh after that wave…
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