Month: November 2020

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : It calmed down at Linda mar. Sunny, blue skies calm, barest hint of surface chop on the water. the dox offering up little mellow glassy waist high nuggets. I scored three and surfed them well. Then it got a little busy so I moved to the creek and the right. it was not crumbling but folding over quickly. the right offered up a bit of a face but then would sort of collided into the left from boat dox – which was a longer ride. So you would get a bit of face time and then stare down another surfer who was finishing his boat dox left – so you make a tasteful “I’m getting off now” dismount…
Stats/Video :

C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : **+
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Great glassy knee to shoulder high first half hour. Classic mellow Cap. Then the last 45 minutes sort of deteriorated – the outside sets stopped coming and the inside was a frustrating mix of kooks and beginners. My surfing went into the toilet…
Stats/Video :

SCP

Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : met Odle down at Cap. Things had died down considerably even though we were two hours from lo tide. No outside bombs – so we went up to Privates. A better call with some outside feathering sets that sort of crumbled into soft faces. it was the best call- not that crowded. wind was very strong cross offshore – everything north of SC was giant white capped victory at sea type shit…

Stats/Video :

C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Making giant surf up and down the coast. Cap was perfect glass. folk were way outside. Was it too big? I was a little nervous but I sat outside and was rewarded – a GIANT outside3 right that went on forever- super heft. Got 4 or 5 more. Best waves of the Fall. when I got in – the news outlet ts had called it for PAW PAW BI-BI – almost cried tears of joy…
Stats/Video :

C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Down to Capitola . even though I got there near low tide the tides were so high in general that it was almost swamped out. Still I managed to snag two outside breaking wedges. South of SC was a blown out mess.
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : *
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : After a nail biting election night that had us in limbo in the am it was good to be at the beach. rubbish waves but there was a small sliver of a right by the creek that was surf able. A woman asked me how long I had been surfing and said “I’ve been watching you for years and been amazed how you paddled into and get waves.” I was flabbergasted -maybe Tina paid her?? (hey her is $ 1000 dollars paddle to my partner and say what a good surfer he is – bi’ll VENMO you the money. Later met in Dolores park for a long lunch with Benjii Vanessa and the girls who are in transit for Patricks in Waiemea for a two m month stay – will home school the kids- Benjii will likely surf 69’s aka Neil young beach everyday…
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : *
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : real garbage pail surf. on the fence3 but suited up. actually surfed good and made the most of it. eeked out a right that was quite good…
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LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Just little slivers of corners on the South end. Most folk were up North where there was more heft. I surfed really well and was able to angle into corners – get up quick shoot the line and get near the nose – then it would crumble into shore break. Challenging but really good exercise in being able to pop up quick k – as well as read m iniscule waves to determine which ones had enough of a corner on them that they would offer a ride and not just close out.
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Clear in the Mission at 715AM. then going over the hump into Pacifica was a super thick cotton swab blanket hanging over the entire Pacifica valley. In the B lot could not even see the beach. On the beach saw a little corner and by the time I got back up to the lot the fog was already starting to burn off.  I managed these little slivers of rights at the creek. Very small but managed to read the little waves really well and scored some little nuggets. The second hour I should have gotten out at the creek and walked up to the north end where it started to glass off with open corners. But I didn’t I stayed in the Southland with the kooks- flailing and forgetting how to surf. oh well…
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