LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Wow that was pretty good. It was overcast with a big huge FAT tide. But at about Middles (the spot between Taco Bell and A lot Pumphouse) there was a wave coming through that offered up a nice fat left. It was only me G, T and UM on it. The lineup up and down the beach was basically empty. Surfed well and scored a number of zippy lefts. At the end I noticed the Right was starting g to work – no one on it. it was bigger but more in frequent. I paddled over to it and waited. A head high right came my way and I was just basically two stroked too deep for it- I tried to make the drop – which I did- but I was too far behind the curl and it sort of detonated on me. Paddled back out to the right but nothing that substantive came by again- managed a chest high right that fluttered alive for 3 seconds until it just sputtered out. all in all good sesh – good waves + Empty line up
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