Month: May 2021

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : very solid threes. finally a session where I really surfed well in the second half hour. my last wave was an impossible long multi section dox waist high left – even with sort of stumbling the take off – it just kept on giving and staying open – then stayed alive for a cutback right for the ending. great session.
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Blue Skies. Somewhat biggish. The north end looked particularly unfriendly. Close out sets. Then open shouldered gems – with some power. After the sets it went very calm and flat. I waited and then scrambled out in the calm flats. The first half hour was glorious. wave after wave. a real solid “hood ornament ride” – some sharp cutbacks. The last 20 minus or so it all of a sudden got crowded – I hit a slump and my mojo petered out. Still pretty good…
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B

Location : B
Time/Length : am/2.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : We packed up semi early – living at 715. clear blue skies- the magic ride. pretty calm at the patch – the anticipated swell was a no show. but all the way down at the groin there was a pod of folk that looked like they were having fun. indeed by the time I got down there the wave revealed itself to be much better than it looked from the slope entrance. plus lots of friendly faces – T , A, M and of course BM in the house. alsoMM. surfed 45 minutes too long. the first two hours were great. but the last 45 minutes I floundered…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Big. Crowded. Lots of tomahawk closeouts. Folks floating and bobbing – clueless and carefree in the impact zone. But once in a while some sizable wedges came thru on the outside that had broad open face – yet un steep- shoulders. The inside pod was where the action was – but way too crowded and competitive for me. I just waited and waited – watching near miss after near miss a la kook collisions. a big ole outside wedge came my way – a great wild ride – which then turned into a sizable re form – I had to dodge about three people on that reform section of the wave. I counted myself lucky and got out… the ole 1 and done…

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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : Wow- choppy and overcast – a little onshore. But … there were weird chunky wedges in front of the A lot pump house-nice thrilling little lines and shoulders- wasn’t expecting much but it was good. one wave or two waves I had were among the best I had all week – and every day all week was good…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.35
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Slightly overcast. Stuff breaking up and down from north to south end. dox looked smaller but better groomed. nice crowd and not that crowded mostly because folk were spread out – waves how I like them- knee to some shoulder highs on the sets. Surfed strong – good wave selection – some strong turns – a dramatic hood ornament
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clear skies. Slight onshore. Chopped up and lumpy – with sometimes biggish things coming in. Was on the fence but then suited up and glad I did. nailed some chunky lumpy lines – at least 4 decent rides. surprise stoke.
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SCP

Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***(barely)
Board : 95
Notes : Straight to privates. it was way working and more crowded. it was bigger also. I stayed away from the main outside pod where head high glass was coming through and Wingnut was holding court. Stayed at the same place – directly straight out from the staircase -waiting for the odd shoulder to swing wide. it did a n umber of times and I scored- however I was not even close to being on my game as yesterday – missed a lot of waves. also got caught inside on a pretty big 4 wave set. thereafter was very cautious in my selection. also wave was steeper and barreling harder than yesterday. still it was classic SC…
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