Month: October 2021

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Holy shit – gotta give that session double fours. It was dox waist to shoulder high perfection. overcast but glassy – with the occasional offshore gust. My second wave I pearched endlessly – then felt the offshore gust blow the left contacts lens right off my eyeball. I paddled In , left the board on a red kelp bed and hoofed it back to the car for a new lens. Crowdwise It jumped up to about 12 people – but then a number of people got out and it went back down to about six (the creek was also working) . Trading off waves with J and  just a few others – couldn’t believe how empty the lineup was for such stellar conditions. 8 waves – 2 over 400 feet and 23 mph (vs typical dox distance and speed of 160 -200 feet and 9-15 mph speed). Six other waves at over 300 feet at 19 mph…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.50
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Wow- that was pretty good. Overcast and glassy. In the water at 7AM with only 6 folk in the lineup. Some very nice waist to chest size numbers coming through – even by 815 there was still only about 14 people at the dox – which is a manageable size as long as there is a bit of consistency in waves and it’s not to Lully. Dawn Patrol has 13 waves -of those- six were really good rides which I surfed well – with control.  good session.
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : In the water at 715 am. I was heading to dox then at the last moment saw D get a really nice Right at the creek n- so opted for that. Glad I did – for the for the first half hour picked off wave after wave- these little “chip shots” – speedy little close to shore rights that were only good for 200 feet then they would crash into a bale of Red Sea kelp -by 815 the tide had shut it down and the crowd had metastasized…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.40
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : In the water at 715 am and there was 7 people at the boat dox pod. The first hour was great. I managed four really solid rides. The lat one was 567 feet which is a length record at LM -especially cause it was all face – also that wave had a speed record at 24 mph. those stats are more akin to a solid session at Privates or Cap. At 815 there were 26 people scattered about boat dox. The high tide had really swamped out most of the swell. in the next hour got two okay rides and called it quits…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clean and clear skies. Windless. Late start – in water at 8 AM and although the B lot was almost full and the A lot was plenty crowded – there was only 14 people at the dox pod. However- it was a big High Tide at 830 – so it was swamped out. however, after 15 minutes of thinking – nothing is gonna break here at dox and I might as well paddle over to the Creek Mess- DOX turned on- pretty steady little outside numbers coming thru – turned into a really good session. managed some severe cutbacks – well severe for me…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Kind of big and intimidating. The creek was too big and crowded. Up north were monsters. When I got out to the lineup at 7:35 am I counted 26 people at dox- it definitely felt way crowded. Yet I selected cautiously and picked off some very nice waves that I surfed well. Glare was really bad- you could not see because of the rising sun. Before I took off o a wave I was definitely making a mental note of who was going to be in my flight path and who had just taken a wave so would be paddling back out as I went down the line. At 830 there was only 14 people I the dox lineup- it made such a biog difference – felt much less crowded – more comfortable and safe…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : After two days of weird -for Fall- ONSHORE messes we were back I business. Overcast but mostly clean conditions. The creek was working – but kind of shifty – it was’t breaking I exactly one place. Dox seemed to be dead. I managed to snare over 3 good waves and probably 3 okay ones. Overall surfed pretty good – and it wasn’t that crowded. However, remarked to J that we didn’t really know anyone I the lineup – they seemed like they all knew each other. About 15 or so 25-30 year olds -hipster tech workers – mustaches and mid-lengths – Maybe Google has a surf team – collecting data in the water…
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